5 Best Restaurants in Attica and Delphi, Greece

Arachova's oldest taverna (more that a hundred years old) still draws gargantuan crowds—causing occasional staff surliness—simply because of the amazing food. Lamb with oregano, and beef in a red sauce are both served with hilopites, the thin egg noodles cut into thousands of tiny squares, for which the area is known. Sample the fried formaella (a mild local sheep's-milk cheese); the hortopites (pastries filled with mountain greens); or the bourekakia (grilled beef patties stuffed with formaella or Gouda cheese). The brusco red wine comes straight from the barrel here.

It is well worth climbing the 263 steps leading from the main road up to the church of Agios Georgios, where the lovely smells wafting from the kitchen of this hilltop institution, from the 1930s, will prepare you for a tasty meal. Start with local specialty opsimotyri (tart yogurt dip) and the house salad of shredded red cabbage, carrot, and grilled mushrooms. Then, dig into a plump bifteki (ground-meat patty) flavored with parsley, or dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) with a creamy lemon sauce. The lamb stewed on vine leaves is also a favorite with regular clients. Reservations are essential during winter weekends, when there is Greek live music and the impromptu party continues until the early morning hours.

In the winter you can warm yourself at your choice of several fireplaces in this old stone house that's been deemed a historic building by the state, and look out at the excellent views of the mountains. Tirokafteri, a piquant cheese spread, is the perfect accompaniment to the stone-ground country bread to start. Follow with a sampling of the large purplish Amfissa olives, fava (mashed yellow split peas, lemon, and raw onions), or the potent skordalia (garlic-mashed potato spread). Meat dominates the mains: rooster with hylopites (tiny pasta squares) in tomato sauce, stuffed lamb shank, and even excellent burgers.