2 Best Sights in Aspendos, The Turquoise Coast

Although there are many Roman theaters still standing, none are quite as perfect as the one at Aspendos, built by a local architect named Xenon during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (AD 161–180). It owes its current preservation to the fact that the Seljuk Turks repurposed it as a royal palace in the 13th century; traces of the distinctive Seljuk red-and-yellow paint work are still visible. In its heyday, it could hold 15,000 spectators and is most striking for the broad curve of seats, perfectly proportioned porticoes, and rich decoration.

The Greeks liked open vistas behind their stages, but the Romans preferred enclosed spaces. The stage building you see today was once covered by an elaborate screen of marble columns, and its niches were filled with statues. The only extant relief on site depicts Dionysus (Bacchus) watching over the theater. The acoustics are fine, and the theater continues to be used—for concerts and for the Aspendos International Opera and Ballet Festival, held every September, rather than for wild-animal and gladiator spectacles as in Roman times. Most visitors just see the theater, but don't miss out on the rest of the site, which is up a zigzagging trail behind it. The rewards are a tall Nymphaion (a sanctuary to the nymphs built around a fountain decorated with a marble dolphin) and the remains of a Byzantine basilica and market hall. You can also see, below in the plain, the stadium and the aqueduct which used an ingenious siphon system.

Just east of Aspendos, a turnoff leads north to Köprülü Kanyon (a popular spot for white-water rafting) and the ruins of Selge. Just before Beskonak (30 km/18 miles), the road splits, and one branch crosses the river, passing a couple of pleasant riverside restaurants. After 10 km (6 miles), the two roads meet again at the start of the canyon proper—you'll drive over a remarkably well-preserved Roman bridge.

From here you head another 15 km (9 miles) up a steep road through rock formations to the village of Zelve, the site of the Roman city of Selge. Just before you reach town, take the left turn, and the impressive Roman theater will soon come into view. Most visitors are happy to clamber over the theater, but from the top you can see the ruins of the city itself on the hill opposite.

There are dozens of raft operators on the river, which runs through the 14-km (8.5-mile) long canyon. The area is also part of the St. Paul Trail long-distance trekking route. If you'd like to explore with a local guide, call Adem Bahar ( 535/762–8116).