15 Best Sights in Old City, Quito

The "company" referred to here is the Society of Jesus, the powerful Jesuit order that profoundly influenced religious life in colonial South America. In many cities, Quito included, the local Jesuit church outshone the local cathedral. La Compañía is the most impressive of the capital's 86 churches, with 10 side altars and a high altar plated with gold. The high central nave and the delicacy of its Arab-inspired plasterwork give the church a sumptuous, almost sinfully rich appearance. Indeed, almost half a ton of gold was poured into the ceilings, walls, pulpits, and altars during its 160 years of construction (1605–1765). At the center of the main altar is a statue of the Quiteña saint Mariana de Jesús; her remains are entombed at the foot of the altar. Guided tours in Spanish or English are included in your admission price. If you see nothing else in Quito, don't miss this.

Here's a textbook case on how to do urban renewal: The city has taken one of its most historic streets, cleaned it up, beefed up security, and given grants to owners to refurbish their properties. The result is a two-block pedestrian-only cobblestone street lined with independent galleries, shops, cafés, and a few small bars. Flowers deck out the wrought-iron balconies and flags flutter over strolling Quiteños.

The restored Sucre House, once the residence of Field Marshal Antonio José de Sucre, displays 19th-century furniture and clothing as well as photographs, historical documents, and letters. The house makes an interesting visit if you're a military-history buff.

The city's cathedral is a repository of art from the Quiteña school, which combined themes of Spanish and indigenous cultures: Jesus preaching in the Andes or the Wise Men mounted on llamas in the Nativity scene. The exceptional sculpting abilities of Manuel Chili Caspicara can be appreciated in the 18th-century tableau The Holy Shroud, which hangs behind the choir, and in the intricate designs of the rococo Chapel of St. Anne, in the right aisle. The building also houses the volcanic rock-hewn tomb of Quito's liberator, Antonio José de Sucre. A guided tour in Spanish or English is included in your admission price. Enter around the corner on Venezuela.

The opening of the New City's Teleferiqo has eclipsed this rounded hill and its stunning views as Quito's most popular lookout point, but El Panecillo wins in convenience and authenticity; it's easy to walk to, you can climb up, and the presentation here is more serene.. At the top stands the monumental cast-aluminum statue of the city's protectress, the Virgin of Quito—a 1976 copy of Bernardo de Legarda's famous 18th-century sculpture Virgin of the Apocalypse of the Immaculate Conception, on display in the Iglesia de San Francisco. There are police on the long flight of stairs up, so it's safe to climb. Due to the elevation, a moderate level of fitness is needed to tackle the stairs, so some visitors may wish to take a taxi and have it wait for you at the top (about $10 round-trip).

The Church of Mercy's beautiful, light-filled interior contains a brilliant statue of the Virgin of Mercy above the main altar. It was sculpted to honor Mary, who supposedly intervened to save Quito from a series of 18th-century earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. The church's 153-foot tower houses the city's largest bell. The adjoining convent, shown by appointment only, features a rich collection of colonial paintings and sculptures.

In 1809 Ecuador's declaration of independence was signed in the Church of St. Augustine, and many of the soldiers who fought the Spanish crown are buried here. The gilded crucifix on the main altar offers an impressive example of a style of art called the Quiteña school. The altar displays paintings by Miguel de Santiago about the life of St. Augustine, while more depictions of the saint crowd the side aisles.

Established by Franciscan monks in 1536 and said to be the first church built in the Americas, the Church of San Francisco was named for the patron saint of the city. The twin towers, destroyed by an eruption of Volcán Pichincha in 1582, were rebuilt at half their original size in 1893, contributing to the facade's uninspiring appearance. Inside, however, you will find the first New World example of an interior entirely covered with gilded and painted wood. Stationed at the main altar is Bernardo de Legarda's famed 18th-century sculpture Virgin of the Apocalypse of the Immaculate Conception. The monastery, at the north end of the complex, now houses a museum of colonial religious art. You can arrange for an English-speaking guide with 24 hours' notice.

The interior of the colonial Church of Santo Domingo may not be as impressive as the Old City's other churches, but it does feature an eye-catching clock and some interesting statues, including the Virgen del Rosario. The adjacent Dominican monastery also holds a small museum of religious art. South of the Plaza Santo Domingo, narrow cobblestone streets lead down to Calle Ronda, one of Quito's first streets.

The Church of the Shrine is noted for its beautiful facade in carefully sculpted stone, large gilded altar, and colorful interior, which includes an 18th-century mural of eight archangels covering the cupola. The site is undergoing a massive renovation at this writing, but do stop in even if the scaffolding is still up during your visit.

In the colonial section of Quito is the Museum of Maria Augusta Urrutia, which a grieving widow kept exactly as it had been when her husband was alive. Don't miss the collection of fine French porcelain, beautiful silver dinnerware, and Ecuadoran art from colonial times to the present. Of note are the works of Ecuadoran painter Victor Mideros.

The Museum of Colonial Art, housed in a restored 17th-century colonial mansion, includes colonial furniture and 16th- to 18th-century sculpture and paintings by Miguel de Santiago and various other members of the School of Quito. The amusing Vices and Virtues of the European Countries is a series of 12 allegorical 18th-century paintings by colonial masters Samaniego and Rodríguez.

Follow the life of the city from indigenous trading post and northern Inca capital to conflict with conquistadors up to the 19th-century. In the former San Juan de Dias Hospital, the city museum's grounds also include a chapel, two courtyards, and a small cafe. Located close to several major Old City attractions, it's a nice historical overview for travelers with limited time.

Locals always refer to the city's main square, shaded by palms and pines, as the Plaza Grande. The portico gracing the plaza's northern end, once the archbishop's palace, now holds a variety of stores and businesses, including several souvenir and sweets shops. The main branch of Quito Turismo, the city's top-notch tourist office, flanks the east side of the plaza. The white, 19th-century neoclassical Palacio de Carondelet—sometimes referred to as Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace)—occupies the west side. Admission is free and worth it for the views of the plaza alone; you'll need to bring your passport or a copy of it to get a timed entry ticket from the booth on the lefthand side. You'll then join a 30-minute group tour at the appointed time, and your guide will hold on to your passport until the end of the tour. Tours are in Spanish but some of the friendly guides speak English, too.

Outdoor cafés are a scarce commodity in the Old City. But Tianguez, a small restaurant/artisan shop makes a pleasant place to while away an afternoon with a gourmet coffee drink—made with fair-trade product—while you write a few cards to the folks back home and watch the passing parade on Plaza San Francisco. A tiny indoor dining area with wooden tables serves effectively on those days when it's too chilly for the green tables and umbrellas on the outdoor patio. Tianguez takes its name from the Quichua word for market (the plaza was a vast outdoor market during Inca times). Tianguez is open daily during the day and Wednesday–Sunday evenings until 11:30 pm, one of the few places to spend an evening in the Old City.