3 Best Sights in Alto Maipo, Side Trips from Santiago

Chilean winemaker Alvaro Espinoza and his wife, Marina Ashton, harvested their first organically grown grapes from biodynamically managed vines in their own front yard in 1998 and Chile's first ultrapremium "garage wine" was born. They've grown since then and have more land higher in the mountains but still produce just 25,000 bottles (each numbered by hand) of their red-blend Antiyal. Tours are personalized, with emphasis on environmentally friendly and biodynamic winegrowing. Llamas, alpacas, geese, and the family dog wander the vineyards. Visits should be arranged at least 24 hours in advance. Antiyal has also opened a small B&B on-site. Contact them through the winery to arrange a stay.

Chile's largest producer is consistently good in every price range, from inexpensive table wine to some of Chile's finest—and priciest—labels. Melchor de Concha y Toro, who once served as Chile's minister of finance, built the casona, or manor house, in 1875. He was among the first to import French vines, making this a cutting-edge winery since its foundation in 1883. The typical hour-long tour includes a stroll through the century-old gardens and vineyards, a look at the modern facilities, and a visit to the Casillero del Diablo, the famed cellar where Don Melchor kept his finest stock. There is a sound-and-light show in the dark here that appeals to lovers of kitsch. Tastings of three wines are included. Reserve a few days ahead for weekdays or a week ahead for popular weekend hours. Close to Puente Alto metro, the vineyard is easily reached by private or colectivo from the end of the line, though the complimentary wine glass is unlikely to survive the way home.

Chile's third-largest winery, on a sprawling estate with an impressive museum, dates to 1880, when everything from vines to winemakers was brought from France. The Pompeiian-style manor now houses the pricey 16-room Casa Real Hotel, owned by, but operated separately from, the winery. The house, its neogothic chapel, and the park that surrounds them are strictly off-limits to all but the hotel's guests, though on tours you get a good peek. The on-site Andean Museum, with its small collection of pre-Columbian artifacts and textiles, is open to the public free of charge and highly recommended. Winery tours take you down into the musty fan vault cellars, now national monuments, which were built by French engineers in 1875 using a limestone-and-egg-white stone masonry technique called cal y canto. Stop in for a lunch at Doña Paula for a formal meal, or stick to the snack bar for lighter fare. There are nine tours to choose from, including winemaker, picnic, bike, and Carménère. You must reserve a week ahead for tours.