22 Best Sights in Recife, The Northeast
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Recife is spread out and somewhat hard to navigate. The Centro—with its mixture of high-rises, colonial churches, and markets—is always busy during the day. The crowds and the narrow streets can make finding your way around even more confusing. The Centro consists of three areas: Recife Antigo (the Old City); Recife proper, with the districts of Santo Antônio and São José; and the districts of Boa Vista and Santo Amaro. The first two areas are on islands formed by the rivers Capibaribe, Beberibe, and Pina; the third is on an island created by the Canal Tacaruna.
Six kilometers (4 miles) south of Centro is the upscale residential and beach district of Boa Viagem, reached by bridge across the Bacia do Pina. Praia da Boa Viagem (Boa Viagem Beach), the Copacabana of Recife, is chockablock with trendy clubs and restaurants as well as many moderately priced and expensive hotels.
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Recife Antigo
Most of Old Recife's colonial-era public buildings and houses have been restored. The area between Rua do Bom Jesus and Rua do Apolo is full of shops, cafés, and bars, making it the hub of downtown life both day and night. On weekends there's live maracatu music and dancing, and a handicrafts fair is held Sunday from 2 to 8 on Rua do Bom Jesus.
Tamandaré
Situated 109 km (68 miles) south of Recife, this beach region shares the same calm, warm waters and natural pools as Porto das Galinhas, yet lacks the crowds. The postcard-perfect Praia dos Carneiros has brilliantly clear emerald waters that are home to shoals of tropical fish. The beach huts there serve fresh coconut water and seafood snacks. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); toilets. Best for: snorkeling; solitude; sunrise; swimming.
Arquivo Judaico de Pernambuco
In Recife Antigo, on the site of the America's first synagogue, this excellent museum offers insight into the history and culture of the city, told through the experience of the Jewish population during the 1600s. All that remains of the original sanctuary, built in 1641, are the walls and the ground, which can be viewed through glass floor panels. Some guides speak English, and the informative signs are bilingual.
Boa Viagem
Coconut palms line Recife's most popular beach, the 9-km-long (4-mile-long) Praia da Boa Viagem. A steady Atlantic breeze tames the hot sun, and reef formations create pools of warm water, although surfing and swimming are limited to designated areas because of the sharks beyond the reef. Sailors and fishermen beach their jangadas (handcrafted log rafts with beautiful sails), and vendors sell coconut drinks from kiosks. Avenida Boa Viagem separates a row of hotels and apartments from the beach, which is lined by a wide blue calçadão (sidewalk) that's perfect for running, bike rides, or evening promenades. On weekend afternoons there's a handicrafts fair in Praça da Boa Viagem. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee). Best for: partiers; sunrises; walking.
Cabo de Santo Agostinho
Some of Pernambuco's finest beaches are clustered around the small town of Cabo de Santo Agostinho, 35 km (22 miles) south of the city. The town's eponymous beach is better for soaking up the view of the cliffs and surrounding colonial houses rather than sunbathing, as there is little sand to sit on. Buses to and from Recife depart regularly and cost R$2. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: sunsets.
Casa da Cultura
The old cells of this former 19th-century prison have been transformed into shops that sell works from Pernambuco's artisans, including clay figurines, wood sculptures, carpets, leather goods, and items made from woven straw. One of the cells has been kept in its original form to give visitors an idea of how the prisoners there lived.
Catedral de São Pedro dos Clérigos
The facade of this cathedral, which was built in 1728, showcases fine wooden sculptures and a splendid trompe-l'oeil ceiling. The square surrounding the cathedral is lined with many restaurants, shops, and bars, and is a hangout for local artists, who often read their poetry or perform music, particularly on Tuesday evening. The square is a focal point during Carnival and the Festa Junina, a lively pagan festival that takes place nationwide through the month of June.
Forte das Cinco Pontas
Originally constructed from mud in 1630, the "Fort of Five Points" was rebuilt in 1677 with stone and mortar; even though it now has only four sides, the fort has retained its original name. One of the last buildings built duing the era of Dutch dominance, this military fort now houses the Museu da Cidade, where an array of maps and photos illustrates Recife's history.
Gaibu
Surrounded by palm trees and favored by local surfers, beautiful Gaibu has become one of the area's most happening hangout spots. Volleyball competitions, fishing, and surfing are all practiced along the shore, while at the end of the beach, you can visit the ruins of the Fort of San Francisco Xavier. Some parts of the beach are not recommended for swimming. Its popularity means the beach can sometimes get crowded, noisy, and dirty Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards. Best for: partiers; surfing; sunset.
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco
Built in 1606, this church has beautiful Portuguese tile work, while the adjoining Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel), constructed in 1697, is an outstanding example of Brazilian baroque architecture. The complex also contains a convent—the Convento Franciscano de Santo Antônio—and a museum displaying sacred art.
Igreja e Convento do Carmo
This historic baroque-style church and convent are constructed of wood and white gold. The main altar has a life-size statue of Our Lady of Carmel.
Ilha de Itamaracá
This island is set off the coast of the historic city of Igarassu and has a number of beautiful beaches with calm waters for swimming, as well as a protected area for manatees. The best beach is Coroa do Avião. To get to its secluded golden sands and handful of pricey beach restaurants, you need to take a boat or canoe from Forte Orange (R$10 per person). Buses to Igarassu and Ilha de Itamaracá leave from the center of Recife, at the Cais de Santa Rita in front of the Fórum Thomas de Aquino. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking.
Maracaípe
South of Recife on the road past Porto das Galinha lies serene Maracaípe Beach. The excellent waves and happening Quiosques (beach bars) have made this a popular weekend spot with younger crowds, although the rough waters and strong currents make it more suited to surfers than swimming. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; surfers; windsurfing.
Museu do Estado de Pernambuco
The state historical museum, in a mansion once owned by a baron, seems more like a home filled with beautiful antiques than a museum, providing visitors with a taste of how life was lived in Recife 200 years ago. Among the 14,000 objects on display, there is a grand piano, a dining-room table set with 18th-century china, an ornate 19th-century crib, and many beautiful paintings.
Museu do Homem do Nordeste
Offering rich insight into the history and cultural influences of Brazil's Northeast, this museum's collection ranges from utensils crafted by indigenous tribes and artifacts from European colonizers, to religious items from African slaves and ceramics by artists such as Mestre Vitalino and Mestre Zê.
Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand
In the old São José sugar refinery, this museum houses more than 2,000 ceramic pieces by the great (and prolific) Brazilian artist Francisco Brennand. Having studied in France, he was influenced by Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró, among others, and his works also include paintings, drawings, and engravings. About 15 km (9 miles) from Recife Antigo, the museum's location amid forests and fountains is almost as appealing as its displays.
Porto de Galinhas
Once considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, this historic port has lost a considerable dose of its original charm because of the increasingly heavy influx of tourists drawn to the beach's transparent natural swimming pools. If you don't mind sharing the beauty, there is a good variety of hotels and restaurants, as well as jangadas (small boats) for hire. The beach, which follows the curve of a bay lined with coconut palms and cashew trees, gets crowded on weekends year-round. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; snorkeling; sunrise; surfing.
Praça da República
In the heart of Rio Antigo, the city's original cultural and political meeting point of the 17th century was given a new lease on life by landscape architect Burle Marx in the 1930s, and now features rows of Imperial palms and a hundred-year-old Baobab tree among the elaborate 19th- and 20th-century architecture. Highlights include the Teatro Santa Isabel (St. Isabel Theater, 1850); the Palácio do Campo das Princesas, also known as the Palácio do Governo (Government House, 1841); and the Palácio da Justiça (Court House, 1930).