30 Best Sights in Salvador, Salvador and the Bahia Coast

Recognized as one of the richest examples of baroque architecture in Brazil, this 17th-century masterpiece is a must-visit. The masonry facade is made of Portuguese sandstone, brought as ballast in shipping boats; the 16th-century tiles in the sacristy came from Macau. Inside, the engravings on the altars show the evolution of architectural styles in Bahia. Hints of Asia permeate the decoration, such as the facial features and clothing of the figures in the transept altars and the intricate ivory-and-tortoise shell inlay from Goa on the Japiassu family altar, third on the right as you enter (it is attributed to a Jesuit monk from China). The altars and ceiling are layered with gold—about 10 grams per square meter.

One of the most impressive churches in Salvador, the Church of St. Francis was built in the 18th century on the site of an earlier church that was burned down during the Dutch invasion in the early 1600s. The ceiling was painted in 1774 by José Joaquim da Rocha, who founded Brazil's first art school. The ornate cedar-and-rosewood interior is covered with images of mermaids and other fanciful creatures bathed in gold leaf. Guides say that there's as much as a ton of gold here, but restoration experts maintain there's much less. At the end of Sunday morning Mass, which begins at 8 am, the lights are switched off so you can catch the wondrous subtlety of the gold leaf under natural light. Mass is held Tuesday through Saturday beginning at 7:15 am.

When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.

With an interior glittering in gold, the church here is considered one of the country's most impressive. Along with intricately carved woodwork, the convento has an impressive series of 37 white-and-blue tiled panels lining the walls of the cloister that tell the tale of the birth and life of St. Francis of Assisi. It is worth attending Sunday morning Mass for the atmosphere alone.

For a few centavos, ascend 236 feet in about a minute in the world's first urban elevator, which runs between Praça Visconde de Cayrú in the Lower City and the Paço Municipal in the Upper City. Built in 1872, the elevator originally ran on hydraulics. It was electrified when it was restored in the 1930s. Bahians joke that the elevator is the only way to "go up" in life. Watch out for pickpockets when the elevator's crowded.

A visit to this all-encompassing daily market, the largest in the state, is a headfirst dive into Bahian culture. Dress down and wander labyrinthine alleys of exotic fruits, squawking chickens, dried flamingo pink prawns, and household goods crafted from palha (straw), before heading into the covered section, where you will find an entire lane dedicated to accessories for Candomblé practices. Join early-morning vendors for a break at the barracas that line the edges and try the local speciality of passarinha (fried cow spleen), if you dare, although a cold beer is probably the safer option.

While this fort set at the end of Rua Direita de Santo Antonio may not win prizes for its architecture, its real draw is as a center for capoeira, a type of martial art practiced in Brazil. Classes led by different capoeria masters take place in the former cells, each with an individiual schedule, and begin every day at 6 pm.

A symbol of Salvador, St. Anthony's Fort has stood guard over Salvador since its construction in 1534, and is recognized as Brazil's oldest military structure. The lighthouse atop the fort wasn't built until 1696, after many a ship wrecked on the coral reefs around the Baía de Todos os Santos entrance. Inside, the small Museu Náutico has permanent exhibitions of old maps, navigational equipment, artillery, model vessels, and remnants of shipwrecks found by archaeologists off the Bahian coast. Go in the late afternoon to climb the 22-meter tower before watching the impressive sunset with the crowds who gather on the bank below. Across the road, don't miss stopping by Dinha's barraca for acarajé; her version of the typical Bahian speciality is rumored to be the best in town.

This colonial mansion set on the Pelourinho provides a glimpse into the life, work, and inspiration of Bahia's best beloved writer, Jorge Amado. A nice coffee shop provides great viewing over the square. This house is conveniently located, but those looking to delve deeper should make the trip to Rio Vermelho's recently opened Casa de Jorge Amado.

At this gallery dedicated to the works of renowned French photographer Pierre Verger you can catch a rotating selection of his captivating black-and-white shots of Afro-Brazilian culture from the 1950s–'70s, detailing both daily and religious rituals. A much larger archive is accessible at the foundation, which also hosts workshops and classes and is located on the outskirts of Salvador.

Built by and for slaves between 1704 and 1796, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos has finally won acclaim outside the local Afro-Brazilian community. After extensive renovation, it's worth a look at the side altars to see statues of the church's few black saints. African rhythms pervade the services and the Sunday Mass is one not to miss.

Set atop a hill as the Itapagibe Peninsula extends into the bay, Salvador's iconic Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bomfim is well worth the 8-km (5-mile) detour from the Centro Histórico and marks a crossroads between the Christian and native African religions. Its patron saint, Oxalá, is the father of all the gods and goddesses in the Candomblé mythology. Built in the 1750s, the church has many ex-votos (votive offerings) of wax, wooden, and plaster replicas of body parts, left by those praying for miraculous cures. Outside the church, street vendors sell a bizarre mixture of figurines, from St. George and the Dragon to devils and warriors. The morning Mass on the first Friday of the month draws a huge congregation, most wearing white, with practitioners of Candomblé on one side and Catholics on the other.

The baroque Church of the Third Order of St. Dominic (1731) houses a collection of carved processional saints and other sacred objects. Such sculptures often had hollow interiors and were used to smuggle gold into Portugal to avoid taxes. Asian details in the church decoration are evidence of long-ago connections with the Portugese colonies of Goa and Macau.

The largest of 56 islands in the Baía de Todos os Santos, Itaparica was originally settled because its ample supply of fresh mineral water was believed to have rejuvenating qualities. Its beaches are calm and shallow, thanks to the surrounding reefs, which are avidly sought by windsurfers, divers, and snorkelers. The main port of entry on the north of the island is the town of Bom Despacho, where the ferries from Salvador dock. If you plan to travel to either the Maráu Península or Boibepa by bus, boat, or car from Salvador, you will need to pass through Itaparica. The drive from Salvador to the island via highway takes about four hours, while regular ferries departing from the Terminal de São Joaquim take approximately 40 minutes and are the easiest way to access the island.

If you are looking to explore, the best beaches are near the villages of Vera Cruz, Mar Grande, and Conceição, the latter almost entirely owned by Club Med Itaparica.

Alongside buses and taxis, small Volkswagen vans (called kombis) provide the most convenient local transportation around the island. You can hail vans and hop from beach to beach along the 40 km (25 miles) of BA 001, the coastal highway that connects Itaparica village on the north part of the island to the mainland via Ponte do Funil (Funnel Bridge) on the southwest side.

Once the "whipping post" for runaway for slaves, this square now serves as the cultural heart of Salvador's Historic Center, with regular live music performed in front of the colorful colonial buildings. The four public stages are named after characters in Jorge Amado novels; a museum on the acclaimed author, who lived from 1912 to 2001, borders the upper end of the square. While summer months see performances nightly, year-around Tuesdays and Sundays are the days not to miss for music in the Pelourinho. The small plaza commemorates the day in 1888 when Princesa Isabel, daughter of Dom Pedro II, signed the decree that officially ended slavery.

Set on the bay in Cidade Baixa, this crafts market was once the holding pen for slaves between the 17th and 19th century as they arrived off the boat from Africa. Today it's a convenient place to buy handicrafts, although don't expect a great deal of variety or innovation—this is a market for tourists rather than locals. Bargaining is expected here for goods like cachaça (sugarcane liquor), cashews, pepper sauce, cigars, leather goods, hammocks, musical instruments, and semiprecious stones. Head up to the the alfresco terrace on the top-floor restaurant to enjoy a cold beer while watching the boats set off for Morro do Sao Paulo.

Next to the Catedral Basílica, this palatial pink building has a collection of more than 1,100 pieces relating to the city's religious or spiritual history, including pottery, sculpture, tapestry, weavings, paintings, crafts, carvings, and photographs. There's an interesting display on the meanings of Candomblé deities, with huge carved-wood panels portraying each one. The other museum that shares the building is the Museu Arqueologia e Etnologia (Archaeology and Ethnology Museum). Both have information booklets available in multiple languages.

A collection of more than 3,000 objects gathered from around the world by the Costa Pinto family, including furniture, crystal, silver pieces, and paintings, is on display at this museum. Included in the collection are examples of gold and silver balangandãs, chains with large silver charms in the shapes of tropical fruits and fish, which were worn by slave women around the waist.

Housed in a former Carmelite monastery, the museum and the adjoining Igreja de Santa Teresa (St. Theresa Church) are among the best in Salvador. An in-house restoration team has worked miracles that bring alive Salvador's golden age as Brazil's capital and main port, told through thoughtfully cared-for collections of religious objects, although lacking in English translations. See the silver altar in the church, recovered from the fire that razed the original Igreja da Sé in 1933, and the blue-and-yellow-tile sacristy replete with a bay view. Access can be tricky to find due to the lack of signs; look for it on Rua Santa Thereza, near the taxi point.

The Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, on the north side of the Igreja de São Francisco complex, has an 18th-century Spanish plateresque sandstone facade—the only one in Brazil—that is carved to resemble Spanish silver altars made by beating the metal into wooden molds.

See where it all began at this neoclassic beauty, constructed on the site of Brazil's first government building. Dating back to 1549, the Palace reopened in 2010 after an extensive, two-year restoration and today stands as a cultural center, housing Salvador's Chamber of Commerce, the Cultural Foundation of the State of Bahia, and the state tourist office. On the first floor there's a small memorial museum depicting the last two centuries of local history. Stop by for one of the guided visits around the Palacio's elaborate chambers, led by local graduates every half hour. Get a great view of Cidade Baixa and the bay from the east balcony.

One of the nicest beaches along Avenida Oceánica is Praia Corsário, a long stretch packed on weekends with a younger crowd. Strong waves make it popular with surfers and bodyboarders, while swimmers should proceed with caution. There are kiosks where you can sit in the shade and enjoy seafood and ice-cold beer. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers; surfing.

Clean sand, simple kiosks, and a beautiful view make this long stretch of golden sand a favorite among good-looking locals and surfers drawn to the strong waves. Buses, which run regularly from Barra and the City Center, take just over an hour; the journey is well worth it if you are looking for a serious beach day. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming; walking.

This popular beach in Barra draws a wide variety of sunseekers from across the city and is a convenient option if you're staying in the hotel districts of Ondina and Rio Vermelho, where rock outcroppings make swimming dangerous and pollution is often a problem. Chairs and umbrellas are available for rent, and you can purchase food from one of the many restaurants lining the promenade. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: partiers; surfing; sunset.

Frequented by the artists who live in the neighborhood, the Itapuã Beach has an eclectic atmosphere. There are food kiosks—including Acarajé da Cira, one of the best places to get acarajé (a spicy fried-bean snack). Although the coconut palms and white sands remain idyllic, it is advisable to be watchful of your belongings. Inland from Itapuã, a mystical freshwater lagoon, the Lagoa de Abaeté, and surrounding sand dunes are now a municipal park. Itapuã's dark waters are a startling contrast to the fine white sand of its shores, but it's not suitable for swimming. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; parking. Best for: walking.

One of the northernmost beaches in the Salvador municipality, Praia Stella Maris's long stretch of sand is ever-popular with families in spite of the strong waves. The myriad of food-and-drink kiosks, serving delicious salty snacks and água de côco (coconut water), get busy on the weekends. The airport is located just 10 minutes away. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets; parking (fee). Best for: surfing; walking.

Double-decker tour buses run by Salvador Bus travel around the Upper and Lower Cities and to the beaches. There are two different routes: one that traverses the center of Salvador, and one that connects the beaches of Stella Maris and Itapuã. A R$50 wristband lets you hop off and on as many times as you like.

Ferries to the island run daily from the Terminal Marítimo São Joaquim. Tickets cost R$3.95 during the week and R$5.20 on the weekend. The ferries run from 5 am to 11 pm and last 40 minutes.

This wide plaza lined with 17th-century houses sits in the heart of historic Salvador. Where nobles once strolled under imperial palm trees, there's a crafts fair on weekends. In the afternoons, a group of locals practice capoeira—a stylized dance-like fight with African origins—to the sound of the berimbau, a bow-shape musical instrument.