4 Best Sights in Copacabana and Leme, Rio de Janeiro

Maddening traffic, noise, packed apartment blocks, and a world-famous beach—this is Copacabana, or, Manhattan with bikinis. Walk along the neighborhood's classic crescent to dive headfirst into Rio's beach culture, a cradle-to-grave lifestyle that begins with toddlers accompanying their parents to the water and ends with silver-haired seniors walking hand in hand along the sidewalk. Copacabana hums with activity: you're likely to see athletic men playing volleyball using only their feet and heads, not their hands—a sport Brazilians have dubbed futevôlei. Soccer is also popular, and Copacabana has been a frequent host to the annual world beach soccer championships. You can swim here, although pollution levels and a strong undertow can sometimes be discouraging. Pollution levels change daily and are well publicized; someone at your hotel should be able to get you the information.

Copacabana's privileged live on beachfront Avenida Atlântica, famed for its wide mosaic sidewalks designed by Roberto Burle Marx, and for its grand hotels—including the Copacabana Palace Hotel—and cafés with sidewalk seating. On Sunday two of the avenue's lanes are closed to traffic and are taken over by joggers, rollerbladers, cyclists, and pedestrians. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; walking.

Copacabana Fort was built in 1914 as part of Rio's first line of defense, and many original features, such as the thick brick fortification and old Krupp cannons, are still visible. In the '60s and '70s, during Brazil's military dictatorship, political prisoners were kept here. The fort is impressive in itself, and the entrance archway perfectly frames a postcard view of Sugar Loaf. The best views, however, follow the path to its end and climb the steep stairs to the cannon roof, which juts right out into the ocean and takes in sweeping vistas over the Zona Sul beaches. The on-site military-history museum is worth a stop, and there are two good cafés here as well as a gift shop. During the Brazilian summer, violin recitals, classical music performances, and outdoor cinema screenings are held here, many free of charge.

A barely noticeable stretch of sand tucked away between Arpoador and a natural rock wall that extends to Copacabana's fort, Praia do Diabo is popular with local surfistas (surfers) but the dangerous waves, which can smash an unskilled surfer into the nearby rocks, leave no mystery as to why this beach is called the Devil's Beach in Portuguese. Take advantage of the exercise bars, and watch the sunrise while from Arpoador rock, but stay out of the water unless you are a very experienced surfer. Toilets and showers can be found at nearby Arpoador and Copacabana. Amenities: none. Best for: surfing.

Leme Beach is a natural extension of Copacabana Beach to the northeast, toward Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf). A rock formation juts into the water here, forming a quiet cove that's less crowded than the rest of the beach. This is a top spot for families, and small wading pools can be rented along with the usual beach chairs and sun umbrellas at the many barracas (beach tents selling food and drink). Along a sidewalk, at the side of the mountain overlooking Leme, anglers stand elbow to elbow with their lines dangling into the sea. Many locals swim here, but be wary of the strong undertow, and never head into the water when the red flag is displayed on the beach. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers; lifeguards. Best for: walking; sunset.