Surf's Up Down East

Being sparsely developed, the Eastern Shore—which starts on the fringes of Halifax and covers more than 200 km (125 miles) of coast—has few residents and even fewer tourist attractions. But, oh boy, does it have beaches! Two of the best are Lawrencetown and Martinique. About 27 km (17 miles) and 57 km (35 miles), respectively, from downtown Halifax, both strands are designated provincial parks and have lifeguards on duty in season to supervise swimming. Yet it’s not so much swimmers as surfers that these beautiful, wave-blasted beaches attract.

Summer is prime time here, especially when northward-tracking hurricanes churn up the Atlantic, so if you’ve already got surf gear all you have to do before hitting the water is check the local surf forecast at magicseaweed.com. Otherwise, there are several outfitters who rent or sell boards and wet suits (you’ll want a suit because the water is cold).

Happy Dudes Surf Emporium (902/827–4962 happydudes.wordpress.com) has two locations—one at Martinique (2137 E. Petpeswick Rd., East Petpeswick) and the other 3 km (2 miles) east of Lawrencetown Beach (4891 Hwy. 207, Three Fathom Harbour). In addition, a mobile outlet is typically parked right at Lawrencetown when the surf is up. Groups of three or more can get 3½ hours of lessons for C$50 per person, plus equipment rental; private lessons cost C$120 per person, or C$60 each for two people.

Also close to Lawrencetown Beach is the Kannon Beach Surf Shop (4144 Lawrencetown Rd., East Lawrencetown 902/471–0025 www.kannonbeach.com). The shop, in the basement of MacDonald House, also offers lessons, with equipment included, starting at C$95—and you get to keep the equipment for the rest of the day. Rentals cost C$40 per day for a board and a wet suit, including boots and gloves.

At the same location as Kannon, One Life Surf School (902/880–7873 www.onelifesurf.com) is run by—but not exclusively for—women. Lessons start at C$70 per person for groups or C$100 for an individual. Equipment is included.

For more information and event listings, visit the website for the Surfing Association of Nova Scotia (www.surfns.com).