Volcano Views
From left to right, the three volcanoes you see that make that oh-so-perfect backdrop across Lake Atitlán from Panajachel are: partially obscured Volcán Atitlán (3,523 meters/11,560 feet), Volcán Tolimán (3,151 meters/10,340 feet), and Volcán San Pedro (3,023 meters/9,920 feet). All are dormant. San Pedro is logistically the easiest of the three to climb—access is via San Pedro La Laguna—but "easy" is relative here. The ascent is steep, and that makes for a steep descent, too. The trail gets slippery in sections, even during the dry season, and rarely levels off to allow you to catch your breath. Your reward for the grueling hike? The views of the entire lake region are stunning. Atitlán and Tolimán have been ascended, but their remoteness relative to San Pedro has meant occasional robberies. (San Pedro has suffered that problem, too.) No matter which one of the three lake volcanoes you attempt, for safety reasons we recommend you climb with an organized excursion.
The 3,772-meter (12,375-foot) Volcán Santa María keeps watch over Quetzaltenango. Santa María last erupted in 1902. It and accompanying earthquakes caused widespread damage to the city and to the slopes heading down to the Pacific coast, and killed an estimated 1,500 people. The eruption was said to spew ash as far away as San Francisco, California, and decimated the region's coffee industry, but paradoxically, Santa María's volcanic ash provided a much-needed fertilizing boost to the countryside near Antigua, allowing that city to take the lead in coffee production. If you can handle the altitude, the dormant volcano is a reasonable day-trip ascent, with stupendous views east as far as Volcán Pacaya south of Guatemala City, and as far west as far as Mexico. The real treat is the view of the nearby 3,500-meter (11,482-foot) Volcán Santiaguito, which hatched through the earth during the 1902 eruption of Santa María. Santiaguito, continuously active since then, is too dangerous to climb. Clouds move in and obscure the views by late morning, making a very early morning start essential. Although safety is far less a concern here than for the volcanoes close to the capital or Atitlán, a few robberies of solo hikers have occurred. We recommend that you take the trip with an organized tour.
Guatemala's highest peak, the 4,220-meter (13,845-foot) Volcán Tajumulco, sits outside the small city of San Marcos, 48 km (29 miles) northeast of Quetzaltenango, and a scant 15 km (9 miles) from the Mexican border. As with Santa María, if you can handle the altitude—gauge your abilities carefully—the ascent itself is reasonable. Numerous Quetzaltenango outfitters organize two-day, one-night Tajumulco trips.
Adrenalina Tours leads excursions up the Santa María and Tajumulco volcanoes. Atitrans leads ascents up the San Pedro volcano. Quetzaltrekkers leads trips up the Santa María and Tajumulco volcanoes.
Adrenalina Tours. Quetzaltenango, Quetzaltenango. 7761–4509; www.adrenalinatours.com.
Atitrans. Panajachel, Sololá. 7762–2246; www.atitrans.com.
Quetzaltrekkers. Quetzaltenango, Quetzaltenango. 7765–5895; www.quetzaltrekkers.com.
