6 Best Sights in The Cayes and Atolls, Belize

This remarkable nonprofit specializes in the care and rehabilitation of American crocodiles, but they also rescue and rehab pelicans, iguanas, turtles, snakes, and other creatures. Operators Christina Manzi and Chris Summers are warriors for the protection of Belize's wildlife and their habitat. You can schedule an educational visit to the center, and possibly see unreleasable crocs or critters temporarily on-site for medical care. It's a little off-the-beaten track but well worth a visit. 

Development on Ambergris continues relentlessly, but most of the far north of the island remains unsullied by that development. At the top of the caye, abutting Mexico, this UNESCO World Heritage Site spans almost 44 square miles (113 square km) of land, reef, and sea. Here, on 11 miles (18 km) of trails you may cross paths with whitetail deer, ocelots, saltwater crocodiles, and, according to some reports, pumas and jaguars. There are beautiful diving, snorkeling, and fishing opportunities, especially off Rocky Point, and a small visitor center and museum to get you oriented. You'll need a boat and a guide to take you here, where there are at least nine ancient Maya sites. Walk carefully, as loggerhead and green sea turtles nest here. Be sure to bring insect repellent. An all-day snorkel trip to Bacalar Chico from San Pedro is unforgettable.

From the air, the Blue Hole, a breathtaking vertical chute that drops several hundred feet through the reef, is a dark blue eye in the center of the shallow lagoon. The Blue Hole was first dived by Jacques Cousteau in 1971 and has since become a diver's pilgrimage site. Just over 1,000 feet wide at the surface and dropping almost vertically to a depth of 412 feet, the Blue Hole is like swimming down a mineshaft, but a mineshaft with hammerhead sharks. This excitement is reflected in the thousands of stickers and T-shirts reading, "I Dived the Blue Hole."

Put this idiosyncratic iguana sanctuary at the top of your list for San Pedro. Founder Calvin Young celebrates the fascinating, prehistoric reptiles by preserving a patch of mangrove habitat for some 300 black and green iguanas. The impressive park is by-donation only and open daily. Keep your eyes peeled for Oh My God––a seven-foot iguana named for the expression everyone says when they see him. While you can't feed wild iguanas, it's okay to offer a banana or papaya to these critters, which have been raised. 

If you’ve always wanted to dive with the gentle, 60-foot-long whale shark, Gladden Spit is the place. But this is the catch: you have an extremely narrow window in which to do so. The spawning of various snappers—cubera, mutton, and dog—draw the whale sharks here, and that takes place from March through June from the full moon to the last quarter. (Even March can be chancy.) If your schedule coincides, all dive outfitters in the village of Placencia can get you here during these mini-seasons. It means needing to reserve far in advance for a popular excursion that can be offered three—four if you’re lucky—calendar weeks during the year. The other 48–49 weeks, the two pristine, deserted Silk Cayes offer a chance to picnic on their sugar-white beaches and snorkel in their clear-blue waters. Plan on seeing Goliath and Nassau groupers and various sea turtles, but not the whale sharks.

Few visitors make it to this collection of six sand and mangrove cayes, Belize’s southernmost island group. If you’re one of those lucky few, you’ll come back with tales of Hunting Caye, the largest of the Sapodillas, and its gorgeous white-sand beach. Shallow waters immediately off the islands’ coasts make for good snorkeling; various dive sites lie farther out. Spadefish, parrot fish, and dolphins are yours for the viewing. Camping on Lime Caye is your only option for an overnight stay. Save for a few researchers from the University of Belize, who study the sea turtles here, and Belize Defence Force (BDF) personnel, the islands are otherwise uninhabited. Why the military outpost? Guatemala and Honduras also claim the Sapodillas as their own. Belize maintains control of the islands, with its own military on Hunting Caye to ensure that status. The dispute need not concern you as a visitor, and, indeed, you might rub shoulders with day visitors from Livingston, Guatemala. They all need to go through passport control with the BDF. You won’t. Outfitters in Punta Gorda can fix you up with a trip, either for the day or overnight.