6 Best Sights in Van, The Black Sea Coast and Lake Van

On the tranquil, uninhabited islet of Akdamar, among the wild olive and almond trees, stand the scant remains of a monastery that include the truly splendid Church of the Holy Cross. Built in AD 921 by an Armenian king, Gagik Artsruni of Vaspurakan, the compound was originally part of a palace, but was later converted to a monastery. Incredible high-relief carvings on the exterior make the church one of the most enchanting spots in Turkey. Much of the Old Testament is depicted here: look for Adam and Eve, David and Goliath, and Jonah and the whale. Along the top is a frieze of running animals; another frieze shows a vineyard where laborers work the fields and women dance with bears; and, of course, King Gagik, almost hidden above the entrance, is depicted, offering his church to Christ. The monastery operated until WWI, and since 2010 annual religious services have been allowed, usually in early September.

There are a handful of small cafés and gift shops on the island, and a few coves that offer the opportunity to swim in the alkaline lake. One of the most charming things about the island may be the large number of gray rabbits scampering about. To reach Akdamar from Van, take a minibus (20 TL) or follow Route 300 to Gevaş, which is about 20 miles away. Just past Gevaş, you'll see ferries waiting at the well-marked landing to collect the required number of passengers—between 10 and 15—for the 20-minute ride. Normally it costs 30 TL per person but if there aren't enough passengers the round-trip is around 300 TL. Boats return to the mainland hourly until 6 pm.

On the shore of Lake Van, the remains of the small town of Ahlat are an impressive open-air museum of what was an important cultural destination. The remains of Seljuk and Ottoman mosques and fortresses, and the medieval cemetery with its impressive collection of monumental türbe (tombs), are the main attractions. A small museum on the sprawling site contains a collection of Uratian metalwork and pottery.

Aside from Akdamar, there are several other small islands on Lake Van, with their own Armenian churches. While none are quite as glorious as Akdamar, the most interesting is Çarpanak Island, north of Van, often visited in combination with Adır Island. At Çarpanak Island, a strip of land extends into the water and you can wade for several hundred feet as the water is quite shallow. If you have the time and money, it can make a nice excursion where you'll likely to have the whole island to yourself. You need to hire a whole boat to visit, which costs around 250 or 350 TL.

Across the lake from Van is one of Turkey's loveliest natural wonders, the beautiful and rarely visited crater lakes of Mt. Nemrut (Nemrut Krater Gölü), which should not be confused with the more famous Mt. Nemrut farther west. From Tatvan, 146 km (91 miles) west of Van, a rutted road leads up the mountain to the 10,000-foot-high rim of what was once a mighty volcano. From the rim of the crater, you can see down to the two lakes below—a smaller swimmable one fed by hot springs and a larger, much colder one. A loose dirt road leads down to the lakes, where very simple tea stands are set up. The inside of the crater has an otherworldly feel to it, with its own ecosystem: stands of short, stunted trees and scrubby bushes, birds and turtles, and cool breezes. It's only open after the snow melts in May/June until the winter begins again in November. After this time, it's possible to visit a small ski resort located halfway up the mountainside, with a chairlift that takes visitors to the summit.

Turkey's largest and most unusual lake consists of 3,738 square km (1,443 square miles) of startlingly blue water surrounded by mighty volcanic cones, at an elevation of 5,659 feet. The lake was formed when a volcano blew its top and blocked the course of a river, leaving the water with no natural outlet; as a result the lake is highly alkaline and full of sulfides and mineral salts, six times saltier than the ocean. Lake Van's only marine life is a small member of the carp family, the İnci kefalı, which has somehow adapted to the saline environment. Intermittent daily ferries ply the route between Van and Tatvan, taking around four hours and costing just 15 TL, but without fixed departure times. Recreational water sports are limited, and beaches along the rocky shores are few and far between. Swimming in the soft water is pleasant, but try not to swallow any—it tastes terrible. If you're in the mood for a dip, your best bet is to do so when visiting the nearby island of Akdamar, from the lake's south shore. Alternatively, if you head northeast from Van on the Doğubeyazit road, you can stop at the little holiday camp located on the lake's edge just past the farming village of Çolpan. Soft drinks, barbecued food, sunbeds, and basic rooms are all available.

Steps—considerably fewer than the 1,000 claimed in local tourist handouts—ascend to Van Kalesi, the sprawling Urartian fortress on the outskirts of town. A path branches right to Urartian tombs in the sheer south rock face; an impressive cuneiform inscription here honors King Xerxes, whose Persian troops occupied the fortress early in the 5th century BC (look for the red metal fence on the southeast side).You may need to pay a local a tip to show you these. The crumbling ramparts are still impressive (more so than the parts that have been heavily restored), but as is often true in these parts, it's the view—sweeping across the lake and mountains—that makes the steep climb worthwhile. A taxi from the new town should cost no more than 30 TL one way. Cheaper dolmuş (shared taxis) depart regularly from the north end of Cumhuriyet Caddesi and are marked "Kale."