4 Best Restaurants in Kars, The Black Sea Coast and Lake Van

The word ocakbaşı means "by the hearth" and the emphasis here is on grilled meats: the usual kebabs, plus the Black Sea meatball specialty, akçaabat köfte. The kitchen also prepares some local stews, but usually only at lunchtime. Vegetarian options, including delicious fresh mezes, are also available.

This restaurant does exactly what its name suggests: serves up tasty döner kebabs, pide topped with the usual range of meat and cheese, and crispy lahmacun (baked dough topped with ground meat, fresh parsley, and a squeeze of lemon). Try a mercimek (lentil) soup to start (ask for az porsiyon to get a small bowl).

One of Kars's better restaurants is set in an old Russian building, where old tiles blend with modern decor, and an open kitchen fills one end. The menu features a decent mix of Western, Turkish, and local dishes. It's a good option for travelers who fancy a change from Turkish cuisine, since you can opt for Italian or Russian instead. Their dumplings in garlic yogurt and roast goose dishes are particularly recommended. It can get pretty busy, so it's best to reserve ahead of time, especially on weekends.

The kebabs here are simple and tasty, and embroidered curtains, rust-color tablecloths, and waiters in shiny vests add a bit of atmosphere to the cave-like space. Try the ali nazik kebab (grilled meat served on a cheesy eggplant puree) or the ejder kebab, pieces of grilled meat, cheese, parsley, sesame, and egg yolk in a calzone-like wrapping.