Catalonia, Valencia, and the Costa Blanca Restaurants

Catalonia's eateries are deservedly famous. Girona’s Celler de Can Roca was voted the best restaurant in the world in 2015 in the annual critics’ poll conducted by British magazine Restaurant, and a host of other first-rate establishments continue to offer inspiring fine dining in Catalonia, which began in the hinterlands at the legendary Hotel Empordà. You needn’t go to an internationally acclaimed restaurant, however, to dine well. Superstar chef Ferran Adrià of the former foodie paradise elBulli dines regularly at dives in Roses, where straight-up fresh fish is the day-in, day-out attraction. Northern Catalonia's Empordà region is known not only for seafood, but also for a rich assortment of inland and upland products. Beef from Girona's verdant pastureland is prized throughout Catalonia, while wild mushrooms from the Pyrenees and game from the Alberes range offer seasonal depth and breadth to menus across the region. From a simple beachside paella or llobarro (sea bass) at a chiringuito (shack) with tables on the sand, to the splendor of a meal at El Celler de Can Roca, playing culinary hopscotch through Catalonia is a good way to organize a tour.

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  • 1. Hostal Restaurant Sa Rascassa

    $$$

    Dine on fresh seafood, grilled meats, and pasta on the tranquil, tree-shaded patio or inside the rustic-chic dining room. From here, it’s a short stroll to the secluded Aiguafreda swimming cove. It’s a great alternative in summer to Begur’s perpetually packed beachfront restaurants.

    Cala Aiguafreda 3, Begur, Catalonia, 17255, Spain
    972-622845

    Known For

    • Variety of seafood tapas
    • Grilled specialties
    • Attractive patio

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and Nov.–mid-Mar.
  • 2. La Seu

    $$$

    Under co-owners Fede and Diana Cervera and chef Xicu Ramón, this distinguished restaurant in the center of town continues to reinvent and deconstruct traditional Valencian cuisine. The setting is an architectural tour de force: a 16th-century town house transformed into a sunlit modern space with an open kitchen and a three-story-high wall sculpted to resemble a billowing white curtain. The midweek menus, available for lunch or dinner, include a selection of creative tapas—minicourses, really, that might include a soup or a salad—and one rice dish or other main course, giving you a good idea of the chef's repertoire at an unbeatable price.

    Calle Loreto 59, Dénia, Valencia, 03700, Spain
    966-424478

    Known For

    • Creative tapas
    • Unbeatable midweek menu prices
    • Inventive take on Valencian cuisine

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed early Jan.–early Feb. Closed Mon., Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Pa i Raïm

    $$$

    "Bread and Grapes" in Catalan, Pa i Raïm is an excellent restaurant set in writer Josep Pla's ancestral family home in Palafrugell. It has one rustic dining room as well as another in a glassed-in winter garden, plus a leafy terrace, which is the place to be in summer. 

    Torres i Jonama 56, Palafrugell, Catalonia, 17200, Spain
    972-447278

    Known For

    • Grilled whole fish
    • Traditional and contemporary menu
    • Garden terrace

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Wed., No dinner Sun.
  • 4. Arcs

    $$$

    Stone arches dating from the 14th-century frame the tables at this atmospheric restaurant in the historical Part Alta (Old Town). The cooking is smart and modern, with a focus on seasonal, local ingredients, like the crispy veal cannelloni topped with a reduction of Priorat, an intense red wine from the Tarragona province.

    Carrer Misser Sitges 13, Tarragona, Catalonia, 43003, Spain
    977-218040

    Known For

    • Innovative cooking
    • Dramatic setting
    • Great service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 5. Chiringuito

    $$$

    Spelled with a capital C, this legendary seaside spot opened in 1913 and spawned the term that’s given to similar bars dotting the Spanish coast. There’s nothing particularly outstanding about the food—typical seafood tapas, much of it fried—but the waterfront terrace is ideal for soaking up the sun and more than a century of history.

    Passeig de la Ribera 31, Sitges, Catalonia, 08870, Spain
    938-947596

    Known For

    • Sea views
    • Historical eatery
    • So-so food
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  • 6. El Dorado Mar

    $$$

    Around the southern end of the beach at Sant Feliu de Guixols, perched over the entrance to the harbor, this family seafood restaurant offers superb sea views as well as fine fare at unbeatable prices. Whether straight seafood such as lubina (sea bass) or dorada (gilt-head bream) or revuelto de setas (eggs scrambled with wild mushrooms), everything served here is fresh and flavorful.

    Passeig President Irla 15, Sant Feliu de Guixols, Catalonia, 17220, Spain
    972-321818

    Known For

    • Affordable cuisine
    • Knockout egg scramble
    • Fresh seafood

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Tues. Closed Wed., Credit cards accepted
  • 7. El Raset

    $$$

    Set alongside the harbor, this Valencian favorite has been serving traditional cuisine with a modern twist for more than 30 years. From a terrace with views of the water you can choose from an array of excellent seafood dishes, including house specialties such as arroz en caldero (rice with monkfish, lobster, or prawns) and gambas rojas (local red prawns). À la carte dining can be expensive, while set menus are easier on your wallet. 

    Calle Bellavista 7, Dénia, Valencia, 03700, Spain
    965-785040

    Known For

    • Excellent seafood dishes
    • Reasonably priced set menus
    • Tasty paella
  • 8. Hotel Restaurant Sant Pol

    $$$

    This casual restaurant with a beachfront terrace serves fresh seafood and rice dishes, plus an affordable three-course lunch menu (€16.50).

    Passeig de Sant Pol 125, Sant Feliu de Guixols, Catalonia, 17220, Spain
    972-321070

    Known For

    • Paella and fideuà
    • Local fish
    • Sea views

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs.
  • 9. La Costera

    $$$

    This popular restaurant focuses on fine French fare, with such specialties as house-made foie gras, fillet of turbot, and beef entrecôte. There's also a variety of game in season, including venison and partridge.

    Costera Mestre de Música 8, Altea, Valencia, 03590, Spain
    965-840230

    Known For

    • Bucolic outdoor terrace
    • In-season game
    • French specialties

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues., No lunch weekdays., No dinner Sun.
  • 10. La Pepica

    $$$

    Locals regard this bustling, informal restaurant, on the promenade at El Cabanyal beach, as the best in town for seafood paella. Founded in 1898, the walls of the establishment are covered with signed pictures of appreciative visitors, from Ernest Hemingway to King Juan Carlos and the royal family. Try the paella marinera (seafood) topped with shrimp and mussels or hearty platters of calamares (squid) and langostinos (prawns). Save room for the delectable tarts made with fruit in season.

    Av. Neptuno 6, Valencia, Valencia, 46011, Spain
    963-710366

    Known For

    • Locally revered seafood paella
    • Sea views
    • Historic locale

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed evenings in Dec. and Jan. except Fri. and Sat.
  • 11. La Taberna del Gourmet

    $$$

    This wine bar and restaurant in the heart of the casco antiguo (old town) earns high marks from locals and international visitors alike. There's a wide selection of montaditos (sandwiches), paella, and fresh seafood tapas—oysters, mussels, razor clams—complemented by a well-chosen list of Spanish wines. 

    Calle San Fernando 10, Alicante, Valencia, 03002, Spain
    965-204233

    Known For

    • Excellent wine list
    • Tapas tasting menu (€34)
    • Reservations essential
  • 12. Les Coques

    $$$

    If you have time for only one meal in the city, take it at this elegant little restaurant in the heart of historic Tarragona. The menu is bursting with both mountain and Mediterranean fare, and the prix-fixe lunch is a bargain at €19. Start off with the canelons d'auberginia amb ànec (eggplant and duck cannelloni); seafood fans should try the tronc de lluç al forn amb patates (oven-baked hake with potatoes).

    Carrer Sant Llorenç 15, Tarragona, Catalonia, 43003, Spain
    977-228300

    Known For

    • Mountain fare
    • Good-value prix-fixe lunch
    • Good wine list

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., No dinner Sun.–Thurs.
  • 13. Mimolet

    $$$

    Contemporary architecture and cuisine in the old part of Girona make for interesting dining at this sleek, streamlined restaurant. Grilled eel and pepper rice and fideuà with shrimp in a seafood emulsion are typical dishes, and there's a frequently changing five- and 10-course tasting menu.

    Pou Rodó 12, Girona, Catalonia, 17004, Spain
    972-297973

    Known For

    • Good wine list
    • Local oysters on the half-shell
    • Tasting menu of seasonal dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.
  • 14. Patio de la Fuente

    $$$

    In an intimate little space with wicker chairs and pale mauve walls, this restaurant in the old town serves a bargain Mediterranean three-course prix fixe dinner, wine included; you can also order à la carte. In summer, dine on the comfortable patio out back. 

    Carrer Dos de Mayo 16, Calp, Valencia, 03710, Spain
    965-831695

    Known For

    • Outdoor dining
    • Good-value three-course dinner
    • House-made Scotch eggs

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 15. Penyora

    $$$

    Come here for good local fare and, if you order from the prix-fixe menu, a bargain. The menu lists daily-changing meat, fish, and vegetarian options, with staples such as lasanya de verdures (vegetarian lasagna), generously layered with mushrooms, spinach, carrots, and beans, and tasty pumpkin stuffed with vegetables.

    Carrer Nou del Teatre 3, Girona, Catalonia, 17004, Spain
    972-218948

    Known For

    • Prix-fixe menu
    • Good, honest local cuisine
    • Generous portions

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Closed Tues. No dinner Sun.
  • 16. Restaurant Ibèric

    $$$

    This excellent pocket of authentic Costa Brava cuisine serves everything from snails to wild boar in season. Wild mushrooms scrambled with eggs or stewed with hare are specialties.

    Carrer Valls 11, Ullastret, Catalonia, 17114, Spain
    972-757108

    Known For

    • Eclectic cuisine
    • Lovely terrace
    • Excellent local wine list

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., No dinner Sun.–Thurs.
  • 17. Restaurant Minerva

    $$$

    Dine on fresh seafood and paella on the terrace with fabulous views of the sea and the castle beyond.

    Carrer Sant Ramon de Penyafort 7, Tossa de Mar, Catalonia, 17320, Spain
    972-340939

    Known For

    • Fresh fish
    • Seafood paella
    • Great views from the terrace

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed., No dinner.
  • 18. Tinto Fino Ultramarino

    $$$ | Ciutat Vella

    A few steps from the Plaza de la Reina, this cozy spots blends the concept of a tapas bar with that of an Italian wine bar, with dishes like oxtail cannelloni, eggplant “meatballs,” and classic lasagna served small plates-style. There’s a fantastic list of Valencian, Spanish, and Italian wines, with many available by the glass.

    Carrer de la Corretgeria 38, Valencia, Valencia, 46001, Spain
    636-429329

    Known For

    • Tapas-style Italian dishes
    • Valencian wines by the glass
    • Friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch weekdays
  • 19. Tragamar

    $$$

    Along with typical coastal Catalan fare like grilled sardines and prawns, this chic beachfront restaurant offers a handful of classic paellas—including a vegetarian option—as well as more creative seasonal dishes like candied artichokes with cuttlefish.

    Passatge Jimmy Rena, s/n, Calella de Palafrugell, Catalonia, 17210, Spain
    972-307005

    Known For

    • Fresh seafood
    • Beachfront tables
    • Sea views through arched windows

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues.–Wed. and Nov.–late March., No dinner Sun.
  • 20. Vivero

    $$$

    Carved into a rocky point above Playa San Sebastiá, the multi-level Vivero is actually three distinct spaces: a casual, alfresco tapas spot up top; a swankier "beach club" at the bottom; and sandwiched between is a bi-level indoor/outdoor restaurant, with a wide variety of seafood dishes and paellas. Whichever you choose, the real reason to come is for the magnificent views, especially at sunset.

    Passeig Balmins s/n, Sitges, Catalonia, 08870, Spain
    938-942149

    Known For

    • Wonderful sea views
    • Several spaces with different vibes
    • Outdoor dining

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