8 Best Restaurants in Centro, Andalusia

The crowds gathered outside this local favorite off the Alameda de Hercules may be off-putting at first, but the creative inexpensive tapas (from €4) are well worth the wait—and so is the house specialty, the Basque dessert sokoa. Try delicacies like the cigarro para Bécquer (cuttlefish in a filo pastry cigar) and yema sobre bizcocho de boletus (egg atop a mushroom sponge). Tables at the tapas bar can't be booked (a call will get you a reservation at the next-door Eslava restaurant); to help avoid a wait, visit between 12:30 and 1:30 pm or between 5 and 8 pm.

Under the gilt-edged ceiling at Seville's most celebrated pastry outlet (founded in 1885), you can enjoy the flan-like tocino de cielo, or "heavenly bacon." For breakfast, enjoy a traditional feed of toasted bread with tomato and a strong coffee, served at a standing bar. Prices are reasonable despite its popularity.

If you fancy treating yourself to some of the best fish in town, head for this modern Michelin-star restaurant just down the road from the Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija. Seasonal fish and seafood take center stage; you can see the catch of the day displayed in the window. The white-tiled venue has an open kitchen—choose barstool seating for the best view of the action. Look out for the daily specials—the marinated sardines are a must in summer—and staples such as swordfish on toast, shrimp tartare, or squid stuffed with pork or seafood. The wine list offers a good by-the-glass selection, and a tasting menu with paired wines (from €110) is also available. For a budget-friendly alternative, head for La Barra de Cañabota two doors away at number 5. Advance booking is essential.

Down a side street off the Avenida de la Constitución, this historic bar (formerly a wine store) takes you back to 19th-century Seville, and it is still run by descendants of the family that established it in 1850. Locals pack the place at lunchtime, when popular dishes include menudo con garbanzos (tripe with chickpeas) and albóndigas de choco (cuttlefish croquettes). The wine list is, as you would expect, extensive. There are two bar areas: the largest fronts the store and looks out onto the street, and the other is home to huge ceramic wine barrels and tiled walls.

True tradition (castizo itself) comes into its own at this busy venue serving regional dishes such as espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) alongside more modern plates like the popular coliflor tostada con holandesa trufada (cauliflower cheese with truffle oil), plus daily fish specials and the rice dish of the day. The open kitchen gives you a frontline view of your meal in the making. Sit at the bar for tapas or at a table for larger dishes. Be sure to visit the domino-tiled bathroom.

With a privileged spot a block north from the Cathedral, this central restaurant offers two dining spaces: the traditional inside patio, where wood, mirrors, and tasteful lighting create an intimate but airy space; or the pleasant terrace outside. The cuisine combines Andalusian dishes with a modern touch, with menu items such as bloody gazpacho, Idiázabal blue cheese risotto, and red tuna tartare. The baked cheesecake is a favorite dessert.

With a young vibe and a vast and inventive menu (which changes seasonally), this tiny restaurant offers a welcome change from Seville's typical fried fare. The owners' haute-cuisine ambitions are reflected in excellent service and lovingly prepared food—but not in the prices. Typical dishes include omelet with sour cream, Iberian pork cheek, smoked herring roe, and rabbit ribs with garlic fries. Reservations are available for weekday lunches only; at any other time, put your name on the waiting list and pop to the Azotea bar across the road for a drink and generous tapa (€5) while you wait. La Azotea has two other venues (Calle Mateas Gago and Calle Zaragoza, both open all day, every day), but the original offers the best local vibe.