El Rinconcillo
Founded in 1670, this lovely spot serves a classic selection of dishes, such as the pavía de bacalao (fried breaded cod), a superb salmorejo (a puree consisting of tomato and bread), and espinacas con garbanzos, all in generous portions. The views of Iglesia de Santa Catalina out the front window upstairs are unbeatable, and your bill is chalked up on the wooden counters as you go (tapas are attractively priced from €2.50). This is a big favorite with locals, so be prepared for the crowds.