Fodor's Expert Review The Most

Set off by red velvet curtains, with lush furniture and intricately gilded walls, The Most feels like a royal drawing room. And indeed, it is a hangout of sorts for Moscow's modern-day boyars (aristocrats)—the kind who wear Armani suits—who you can spot swooping in for espresso and a croissant in the morning, then returning for oysters and champagne when the sun goes down. Follow their lead, or reserve a candlelit corner table for a romantic evening. The menu transports you to Burgundy, Alsace, and the Riviera, offering frequent sights of fois gras and truffles. Despite the regal setting, the waitstaff is not stiff or white-gloved, but instead quite personable.