Estremadura and the Ribatejo Restaurants

We’ve compiled the best of the best in Estremadura and the Ribatejo - browse our top choices for Restaurants during your stay.

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  • 1. Burro Velho

    $

    The "Old Donkey" may be a relative newcomer to downtown Batalha, but its recipe of traditional dishes and an informal, modern ambience has won over locals and visitors alike. All ingredients are fresh and organic when possible, and there is a range of house-made breads, as well as an excellent choice of wines. Try any of the fresh fish dishes or a hearty meat option. 

    Rua Nossa Sra. Do Caminho, Batalha, Leiria, 2440-121, Portugal
    244 764 174

    Known For

    • Lively, informal atmosphere
    • Top-quality ingredients
    • Fresh fish and hearty meat dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 2. Chico Elias

    $$

    This charmingly rustic restaurant just outside Tomar owes its fame to chef Maria do Céu's creativity—and the huge portions, which are enough for two. At lunch on weekends there are usually delicious hearty dishes such as cabrito assado (roast kid) and cachola (pork rib and loin, served with cabbage). Most of the main dishes take time to prepare in the wood-burning oven, and even regulars must book ahead. For dessert, there are fluffy fatias de Tomar and a delicious leite de creme.

    Rua Principal 70, Tomar, Santarém, 2300–302, Portugal
    249 311 067

    Known For

    • Favorite dishes include feijoada de caracoís (bean stew with snails)
    • Local families flock to this longtime favorite
    • Laid-back atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations essential
  • 3. Esplanada Furnas

    $$$

    Perched on rocks overlooking the open ocean, on the site of a former shellfish nursery, this fashionable restaurant offers some of the best seafood in the area. As you'd expect, the day's menu depends on the sea's bounty, but it might have salmonete (red mullet), pregado (turbot), robalo (sea bass), or linguado (sole). Alternatively, opt for a cataplana of fish stew for two, or even a juicy steak. The starters are worth sampling, too, such as octopus salad or a dish of fresh amêijoas (clams).

    Rua das Furnas 2, Ericeira, Lisbon, 2655–288, Portugal
    261 864 870

    Known For

    • The place has its own own vinho verde
    • More formal feel during the week
    • Family-friendly atmosphere
  • 4. Ó Balcão

    $$

    Don't be fooled by the simple green-and-white tiled interior: this former tavern inspires inventive cooking by Chef Rodrigo Castelo, who uses often overlooked local ingredients to craft sumptuous and surprising dishes. The à la carte menu is a good value, with updated traditional fare such as oxtail gratin and chargrilled octopus, but it's worth splashing out on a tasting menu (€75, plus €45 for wine pairing). One features more than a dozen different species of fish from the Tagus; the other showcases both fish and locally sourced meats. All bread, olive oil and charcuterie is made in-house, along with an amazing range of pungent pickles and fermented foods that are used to bring extra flavor to the chef's creations. 

    Rua Pedro de Santarém 73, Santarém, Santarém, 2000-223, Portugal
    243 055 883

    Known For

    • Tasting menus
    • Delicious combinations
    • Unusual but inventive use of local ingredients
  • 5. O Casarão

    $$

    About 5 km (3 miles) south of Leiria, O Casarão occupies a large country house surrounded by gardens where you may take an aperitif before your meal. Try the ensopado de peixe (fish stew) or, if there are two of you, maybe split an espedata de carne com gambas (skewers of beef and shrimp), which comes with migas de nabiça (fried bread crumbs and turnip tops).

    Estrada da Maceira 10, Azoia, Lisbon, 2400–823, Portugal
    244 871 080

    Known For

    • Service and presentation are flawless without being pretentious
    • Several ancient recipes from nearby monasteries
    • Amazing homemade desserts
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

  • 6. O Toucinho

    $

    This is Almeirim's most popular traditional restaurant, thanks to its excellent grilled meats—lamb and pork as well as steak—and of course the sopa da pedra, which O Toucinho claims to have reinvented back in the 1960s. It is run by a former forcado (one of the bullfighters who literally grab the animal by the horns)—as the bull's heads and bullfight posters will remind you.

    Rua de Timor 2, Almeirim, Santarém, 2080–095, Portugal
    243 592 237

    Known For

    • Check out the kitchen, where the rustic bread is made all day long
    • Desserts such as arroz doce are cooked in a wood-burning oven
    • Your choice of four handsome dining rooms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Thurs., last 2 wks June and 1st wk Aug.
  • 7. Sabores d'Itália

    $$$

    Behind a vintage tiled facade is a widely acclaimed restaurant that has long been among the country's most popular destinations for Italian food. Everything—the pasta, bread, ice cream—is homemade and beautifully presented and served by the owner, Norberto Marcelino, and his wife. Delicious main dishes include shrimp pansotti with a dill sauce, and breast of duck with port wine sauce and clementines. For desserts there is the ever-popular raspberry gratin with lemon sorbet, sinfonia de pêra Rocha (featuring a local pear variety, three ways), and fig crêpe with Moscatel ice cream.

    Praça 5 de Outubro 40, Caldas da Rainha, Leiria, 2500–111, Portugal
    262 845 600

    Known For

    • Roast fig with goat cheese is among mouthwatering starters
    • 500-plus wines include local and Italian varietals
    • Weekday set lunch menu is great value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 1 wk in Nov. No lunch Tues.
  • 8. Tasca do Joel

    $$

    Tucked away on a side street far from the touristy seafront, this tavern attracts diners from far and wide with delicious fresh fish and meat dishes cooked in its wood-burning oven. There are changing daily specials, but regular dishes include bacalhau à tasca (fried codfish with onions and potatoes) and rice-stuffed cuttlefish.

    Rua do Lapadusso 73, Peniche, Leiria, 2520–370, Portugal
    262 782 945

    Known For

    • Kids' menu with simpler fare
    • Wine cellar with more than 1,000 options
    • Sociable long dining tables

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Sept. No dinner Sun.
  • 9. Tia Alice

    $$

    Considered one of Portugal's best traditional restaurants, whose eponymous chef was recently decorated by the country's head of state, "Aunt Alice" is in an inconspicuous old house with French windows across from the parish church, just over 2 km (1.3 miles) from the shrine. A flight of wooden stairs inside leads down to an intimate dining area with stone walls. The arroz de pato (duck rice) is among the many meat dishes worth trying, as is the bacalhau gratinado (baked salt cod with béchamel sauce), which serves two.

    Av. Irmã Lúcia de Jesús 152, Fátima, Santarém, 2495–557, Portugal
    249 531 737

    Known For

    • Outstanding bacalhau and other traditional dishes
    • Elegant flower-filled garden provides some outdoor seating
    • Little crafts shop at the top of the stairs

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Feb. 1–10. No dinner Sun., Reservations essential

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