2 Best Sights in Abrantes, Estremadura and the Ribatejo

Walk up through the maze of narrow, flower-lined streets to this 16th-century castle, which is still an impressive structure today. The garden between the twin fortifications, with its panoramic views, is a wonderful place to watch the sun set: the play of light on the river and the lengthening shadows along the olive groves provide a stirring setting for an evening picnic. The Gothic church within the castle walls, the Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo, houses a museum that showcases sacred art from convents and monasteries around the region, as well as items from a large private collection of Iberian art from prehistoric to contemporary times.

This fairy-tale castle—the fortress of Belver—stands atop a cone-shape hill upriver from Abrantes, commanding a superb view of the Tagus River. It was built in the last years of the 12th century by the Knights Hospitaller under the command of King Sancho I. In 1194, this region was threatened by the Moorish forces who controlled the lands south of the river. The expected attack never took place, and the present structure is little changed from its original design. The walls of the keep, which stands in the center of the courtyard, are some 12 feet thick, and on the ground floor is a great cistern of unknown depth. According to local lore, an orange dropped into the well will later appear bobbing down the river. The castle is reached by car in 30 minutes via the N244–3 through pine-covered hills to Chão de Codes, then the N244 south toward Gavião. There are four trains a day to Belver from Abrantes (a 25-minute ride).