2 Best Sights in Lombardy and the Lakes, Italy

The most famous of the three Isole Borromee (Borromean Islands), is named after Isabella, whose husband, Carlo III Borromeo (1538–84), built the palace and terraced gardens here for her as a wedding present. Before Count Carlo began his project, the island was rocky and almost devoid of vegetation; the soil for the garden had to be transported from the mainland. For a splendid view of the lake, wander up the 10 terraces of Teatro Massimo. In the gardens, white peacocks roam among the scented shrubs. Visit Palazzo Borromeo to see the rooms where famous guests—including Napoléon and Mussolini—stayed in 18th-century splendor.

Stop for lunch at the smallest Borromean island, less than 100 yards wide and only about ½ km (¼ mile) long. It's an ideal place to visit before, after, or in between touring the other two islands. Of the 10 or so restaurants on this island the two worth visiting are Ristorante Il Verbano ( 0323/31226) and Ristorante Belvedere ( 0323/32292). The island with little lanes strung with fishing nets and dotted with shrines to the Madonna is a crowded place filled with souvenir stands and shops in high season.