5 Best Sights in Fiskardo and Assos, Kefalonia

Construction of Assos Castle began in 1593. At the time the island's fortified center, Agios Georgios, was deemed too central by its Venetian rulers, so this was built to provide back-up against pirate raids to the north. Sadly, very little survives today of the original structure except 2 km of outer walls, remnants of the old barracks, and two of its original gates. Earthquakes have destroyed much of it. The clamber up to the ruins is best done in the morning. It's a steep climb with a choice of two routes: a shorter stony path that wraps the northern coast of the peninsula, and a winding paved trail that faces back toward the village. The former has the better views but is less shaded, so is best done on the way up if setting off early. Set aside at least two hours for the whole endeavor. If you want to explore farther, follow the path to the peninsula's northernmost tip, passing an old prison farm that was built in the 1920s and was still in use until 1953. Part of it was renovated into a conference center in the early 2000s and, baffingly, hasn't been used since, its courtyards quickly overtaken by foliage. The exhibition hall is still scattered with leaflets for its 2005 event. Just as amazingly, a small village also used to exist within the castle walls up until the 1960s, cultivating olive trees and living off the land. The last resident was said to have left in 1968.

There's little to see within the village of Assos, yet it's still a dazzling sight. It is largely made up of a single steep road that plummets down to the harbor and then up past pebble shores to a parking lot, for those wanting to continue on to the castle. En route, pinkish-purple bougainvillea bloom from every crevice; vine-like roots wrap the ruins of hollowed out buildings; pretty townhouses painted vibrant pastels glimmer in the sunlight; and the view from on-high over the turquoise waters below is magnificent. By the village square, which bears a plaque commemorating the "Parisiens" whose money rebuilt Assos after its destruction in 1953, are a string of cafés and tavernas swarming the edges of a pebble beach. Here, visitors swap dips in the knee-deep water of the bay for cooling drinks. It's worth resting a while here after climbing to the castle, which can be a sweaty task.

While most sun worshippers head to Emblisi Beach, the real find of this area lies a short stroll from the village of Antipata, just a few kilometers from Fiskardo. From there, park your car and follow the signs 800 m to the shore, strolling through sun-dappled cypress forests. This leads to a tiny white-pebbled inlet crested by trees. In the corner lies a small cave in which monk seals have been known to rest, and you'll only ever see a few other people here at most. There aren't any facilities, but that's the point: a wild beach escape away from the masses. Savor it. Facilities: none. Best for: peace and quiet; a great forest walk; swimming.

Fiskardo derives its name from a Norman Duke and adventurer, Robert Guiscard, who attempted to occupy Kefalonia in 1084. He failed, yet the town rather passively took his name anyway. Today, invaders still arrive in Fiskardo by ship, only these days they're called yachts. Summer sees their ilk far outnumber the traditional fishing boats in the harbor, lending an air of boho chic to the little village and its bustling waterfront of eateries and café-bars. Still, it deserves the attention. Fiskardo remains one of the prettiest stays on the island, with its narrow streets winding past colorful Venetian houses. There's little in the way of museums here, but history surrounds the village. As recently as 2006, a Roman cemetery of 27 tombs was discovered on the edge of the harbor, with its open-air site now easily visited and well-signed. Hiking trails into the hills and forests reveal even more historic relics worth exploring. The town is also a useful port, with ferries to the island of Lefkhada leaving daily during the summer months.

Myrtos is the poster child for Kefalonia's shores, and frequently named among the top beaches in Greece. Wrapped in high scrubby cliffs, its semi-circular bowl of white pebbly sand is larger than most others on the island, meaning the huge swathe of umbrellas and deck chairs that dominate its spine still leaves room in the corners for what passes for "isolation" here. Yet, for all its photogenic qualities, with a big reputation comes crowds. There is a canteen on the shore, but queues mean it's often best to pack your own drinks and snacks. The water can also get a little rough, and there is a steep drop off from the shore, so it's not perfect for little ones. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguard; showers; umbrellas and sun beds; parking (free). Best for: sunset views; panoramic shots from the clifftop.