The Big One

A "Greek Bow"–shaped earthquake zone that dates back 5 million years means the history of the lower Ionian Islands has been forever changed by some earth-shattering events.

Earthquakes have have long shaped life here, from the demolishing of St. George's Castle in 1757, to the levelling of 2,612 houses across Lixiouri in 1867. But the moment that did as much to shape the modern history of the island as any came in the dark days of 1953, when a quake measuring 7.3 on the Richter scale struck the lower half of Kefalonia on August 12.

Some113 earthquakes were recorded over the following days. During that time a total of 27,569 homes out of just 33,000 on Kefalonia were destroyed. It was so powerful that it even raised the entire island by 60 cm. But despite being known as the Great Kefalonia Earthquake, its effects were just as devastating on Zakynthos, to the south, where its capital was entirely leveled.

On Kefalonia, around 600 are thought to have died, and the aftermath was more insidious as nearly all of the islanders lost homes and livelihoods. Even while international aid flooded in, some four-fifths of the island population migrated, leaving just 25,000 behind.

The rebuilding of Kefalonia saw cement versions of its old Venetian-built towns and villages spring up in their image, now sturdier, more tremor-resistant. Only Fiskardo, in the far north, remained intact, its colorful facades saved from the tremors by a limestone crust that underwires the area.

New villages often popped up a short distance from their older namesakes. Even today you can walk to the skeletal ghost towns of Valsamata in the Omala Valley, and Farsa, north of Argostolion, to witness the destruction first hand. A potent reminder that life was never the same again here.