3 Best Sights in Cassis, Provence

Touring the calanques, whose fjordlike finger-coves probe the rocky coastline, is a must. Either take a sightseeing cruise in a boat that dips into each calanque in turn (tickets, sold at the eastern end of the port, are €19–€33, depending on how many calanques you see) or hike across the cliff tops, clambering down the steep sides to these barely accessible retreats. One boat trip lets you swim in the turquoise waters under Cap Canaille, but that must be booked at the kiosk in the morning (four to five departures per day, depending on the weather and water temperature).

Although of the calanques closest to Cassis, Port Miou is the least attractive—it was a pierre de Cassis (Cassis stone) quarry until 1982 when the calanques became protected sites—it now has an active leisure and fishing port. Calanque Port Pin is prettier, with wind-twisted pines growing at angles from white-rock cliffs. But with its tiny beach and jagged cliffs looming overhead, covered with gnarled pine and scrub and its rock spur known to climbers as the "finger of God," Calanque En Vau, reachable via a challenging two-hour hike both there and back (or your own private boat), is a small piece of paradise.

This castle has loomed over the harbor since the invasions of the Saracens in the 7th century, evolving over time into a walled enclosure with stout watchtowers. It's private property today and best viewed from a sunny portside terrace.

If you love wine, pick up a "Through the Vineyards" brochure from the tourist office. There are 11 domaines open for tastings and buying, but the most spectacularly sited is the Clos Sainte Magdeleine set on the slopes of towering Cap Canaille. The boutique of this well-established AOC winery, noted for its delicately balanced whites and an elegant rosé, offers tastings Tuesday through Saturday.