Lyon's Bouchon Tradition

Lyon's iconic bouchons are casual bistrolike restaurants with modest decor along the lines of tiled walls, wooden benches, and zinc counters. In the late 19th century, these informal eateries dished out hearty fare for working-class customers like pony express riders, stagecoach drivers, silk workers, and field laborers.

The term bouchon originated as a description for the bundles of straw that hung over the entrance of early bouchons, indicating the availability of food and drink for horses as well as humans. These friendly, family-run taverns were customarily run by female chefs, serving cuisine that relied heavily on humble pork and beef cuts, such as stomachs, brains, trotters, ears, cheeks, and livers.

Today, many restaurants call themselves bouchons that would not fit the traditional definition. For the real thing, look for a little plaque at the door showing Gnafron, a drunken marionette with red nose and wine glass in hand. He signifies that the establishment is part of the official bouchon association. Bouchons are still a frugal dining choice: in many establishments, €25 will buy an appetizer, main course, salad, and dessert or cheese plate.