Fodor's Expert Review Pickles

At the hottest gastro-bistro in Nantes, Dominic Quirke, a young English chef, who worked in some of Paris's top kitchens before striking out on his own, combines a sophisticated menu featuring the best of the local producers with a stellar list of natural wines. Locals know a great thing when they taste it, and that's why they come here for Nantes veal with tartare of Breton langoustine; Sologne lamb with grilled polenta, beet pickles, and glacéed vegetables; and roast sea bass with fennel risotto and capers with creamed zucchini. A pleasant, unpretentious ambience and a roster of talented visiting chefs keep the bistro's many regulars on their toes. At €55, the five-course tasting menu is a steal.