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There's an old saying in the Czech Republic which goes, "Co ?ech, to muzikant" (Every Czech is a musician). That might be stretching it a bit, but as visitors to Prague quickly realize, culture and performing arts are right at the heart of this beautiful city and its residents.
Music constantly drifts across the cobbled streets in Old Town; theater shows pop up in parks in the balmy summer months; and the calendar is chockablock with world-beating film festivals. And the best part? The affordable ticket prices. It’s almost criminal to come to this city and not take in a performance, from opera to ballet, when they are so accessible.
Prague’s musical history is a rich and varied one, from hometown composers like Antonín Dvo?ák or Bed?ich Smetana to expats like Mozart, whose Don Giovanni made its debut here in 1787 and is still performed regularly. You can also catch the work of more modern Czech composers like Bohuslav Martin?, or even Vladimir Franz, the head-to-toe tattooed composer who gave more seasoned politicians a run for their money in recent presidential elections.
There’s something particularly lovely about the regular classical music performances that take place in ancient churches dotted around the city too, but do follow the recommendations to ensure you’re getting the best of the bunch.
And it’s not all classical. The avant-garde is alive and kicking in the Czech capital, from its youthful theater troupes, some of which perform in English, to a recent crop of thoughtful filmmakers. Interesting modern dance performances also sit alongside more traditional forms. Both the National Theater and State Opera have their own ballet companies staging a mix of classic and contemporary pieces.
Opera is a major draw in Prague too, both for locals and tourists thanks to the English subtitles on most performances. While the snooty exclusivity of opera found elsewhere is eschewed here, do make sure you still dress up to fit in with the regulars.
Even if you aren’t normally a culture vulture, consider taking in a performance while you are in town. The shows are world-class and many of the concert halls are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Note: big theaters and concert halls go dark in July and August; luckily there are festivals aplenty to keep the "magic" of art alive in Prague year-round.
One of the more creative festivals on the Prague circuit, the 4+4 Days in Motion festival offers art projects, installations, performances, and discussions in venues across the city. The venues are half the fun—think reclaimed, little-used palaces surrounding Staré Mĕsto. The festival is themed around contemporary dance and usually takes place in the fall.
Fans of foreign films have a chance to catch up on recent English-subtitled efforts in Days of European Film, which happens every April. Two weeks of films play across three beautiful and historic Prague cinemas—Lucerna, Světozor, and Pilotů—as well as other locations around the Czech Republic. There are also some panel discussions and seminars. Tickets for all screenings and events are a very good value.
The lovely organ in Bazilika sv. Jakuba (St. James Basilica) attracts world-famous musicians for the annual International Organ Festival, which includes weekly concerts during August and September. The festival will celebrate its 25th edition in 2021.
The most important film festival in the Czech Republic is in an ornate spa town in Western Bohemia. The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival ranks with Cannes, Berlin, and Venice among major European festivals. Visitors to the gala, which rolls out in early July, have included Lauren Bacall, Morgan Freeman, Michael Douglas, and Robert De Niro. Founded in 1946 (its 75th anniversary will be in 2021), this is one of the most publicly accessible film festivals around.
Celebrating Roma culture and diversity, the Khamoro World Romani Festival offers music, dance, and film. Romani (Gypsy) bands have become a hot item on the world-music scene, and groups from all over Europe gather in Prague at the end of May for a week of merrymaking. Check out contemporary Roma music, Gypsy jazz, exhibitions, and dance performances, as well as the crowning-glory parade.
From amateur to professional, entertainers of all kinds descend on the grounds of a mental health institution for Mezi ploty—the festival "between the fences." The two-day festival has some of the best local bands, plus theater acts and art workshops, but be aware that only nonalcoholic beer can be sold on the grounds. It takes place at the end of May or beginning of June and aims to raise awareness of issues concerning mental illness.
The One World Human Rights Festival could be handily subtitled "films that will make you think." It showcases work dedicated to human rights and other social and political issues, offering a glimpse of the world through a filmmaker's eye along with many post-screening director chats and workshops. The festival runs for 10 days in March at various Prague theaters, usually including Lucerna, Světozor, and Atlas, before heading out to 35 other cities in the Czech Republic. Nearly all films are in English or with English subtitles.
There's a limited amount of English-language theater in Prague throughout the year. But in May and June, the Czech capital is awash with comedians, actors, dancers, musicians, mime artists, and all manner of other performers from all over the world. Since its inception in 2002, the Prague Fringe has become a major date on the fringe festival circuit, attracting visiting acts from the United Kingdom, the United States, New Zealand, Australia, and all over Europe. The venues are scattered around Malá Strana; performances, which range from Shakespeare to avant-garde cabaret, are staggered so that you could conceivably see five a day.
One of the largest film festivals in Central Europe, with hundreds of screenings in Prague and its sister festival in Slovakia, Febiofest runs for about a week at the end of March and beginning of April. Films—both premieres and retrospectives—come from virtually all over the world, and a number of renowned directors and stars come to introduce their work. As a side to the festival, world-music bands also perform for free in the garage of the multiplex where the festival is held.
Since 1946, the Prague Spring International Music Festival has been the main event of the classical season. It officially starts in early May with a performance of Czech composer Bedřich Smetana's Ma vlást (My Country)—May 12 is the anniversary of his death—and runs until early June, with typically around 60 concerts spread over more than 10 venues during this time. Conductors such as Leonard Bernstein and Sir Charles Mackerras have been among the guests. Orchestra performances, operas, and church recitals make up the bulk of the schedule, although the gala increasingly features hot international jazz talents. The competition element gives attendees the opportunity to see the next big star.
The domestic Czech and European dance scenes are celebrated at the Tanec Praha International Festival of Contemporary Dance and Movement. Lasting for around three weeks every June, renowned companies from all over the world strut their stuff in a selection of Prague venues.
Rockers, this festival is for you! Located on the peaceful, pretty islands of the Vltava, an often underutilized aspect of Prague, the festival brings international rock, blues, and world-music acts to several waterside venues for a weekend at the beginning of June, and entry is free. In the evenings performances by additional bands take place in nearby clubs.
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