13 Best Bars in Stare Mesto (Old Town), Prague

Bearing the name of an old Miles Davis album, this small but charming vaulted basement is home base for many local jazz acts. The management also runs a jazz record label and sells its CDs at the club's store. The historic place can't handle big acts, so the club's ongoing jazz festival often puts those who will draw larger crowds into Lucerna Music Bar. Music starts around 9, but come an hour earlier to get a seat.

Pretty much a fairy-tale dream of a European wine bar, established by a group of artsy Praguers: located in a crumbling courtyard and cellar-style cozy archway (check), serving up personally recommended wines to your taste (check), which you sup by candlelight on barrel tables either inside or outside, wrapped in blankets in the winter if you like (check). It's a little hidden: keep an eye out for the wine droplet sign, leading you into the courtyard, and it's on the right. 

As you walk by in summer, you'll be drawn in by the gentle guitar playing of the brilliant resident musicians, or the smell of the pizza, or the lively hum of conversation and clink of glasses. There are some downers—steep beer prices, and occasionally surly staff—but it's worth it for the location, right on the water's edge near the Narodní divadlo (National Theater), with the castle looming over you on the other side of the river. Beware: you could lose hours of your vacation here if the weather's good, with the water lapping gently beside you and a never-ending stream of foaming beer mugs arriving at your table. 

A former brewery dating as far back as the 15th century, U Medvídků now serves draft Budvar shipped directly from České Budějovice, as well as its own super-strong X Beer 33, which is brewed on-site. It's perhaps the most authentic of the city-center Czech pubs, which also means that it's often pretty busy and service can be correspondingly slow. However, it's also big enough that you've got a good chance of finding a seat. The interior, including the taps, has a turn-of-the-20th-century feel. Occasionally, the bar offers exclusive Budvar brews available only at this location. There's a hotel on-site, and a beer spa, too, and some tours are available. 

The last of the old, smoky, surly pubs in Staré Mĕsto, the "Golden Tiger" is famous for being one of the best Prague pubs for Pilsner Urquell. It's also renowned as a former hangout of one of the country's best-known and beloved writers, Bohumil Hrabal, who died in 1997, as well as Velvet Revolution hero and then president Václav Havel. Reservations are not accepted; one option is to show up when the pub opens at 3 pm, with the rest of the early birds, and settle in for the rest of the night. You won't be disappointed.

Just off Old Town Square, but worlds away from the raucous touristy venues nearby in terms of atmosphere, sophistication, and quiet, Bar and Books is a grown-up, reliable place for a cocktail that is open late. Try the martini, made as you like it; it's predictably good.

If you like your Champagne bars relaxed, located in ancient buildings with shutters and crumbling exterior walls that are covered with graffiti, this little joint is for you. A cool and welcoming spot, with candles scattered around as the sun sets, Champagneria offers a range of drinks from the fizz of its title to Matuška, a craft brew that many Prague hipsters consider the Champagne of beers anyway. Great acoustics for cheerful conversation, proper Champagne glasses, a tasty snack menu, a piano in the corner, art on the walls and regular musical performances only add to the promise.

This (appropriately named) friendly bar in Staré Mĕsto serves reasonably priced beer—and Western-priced mixed drinks—in a roomy cellar space. There's plenty of seating most weeknights, but it does get busy on weekends. It opens at 7 pm (and stays open until 6 am!), videos play every night, happy hour starts at 9, and a DJ spins after 10 on weekends, luring people onto a small dance floor—try karaoke on Tuesday. There's no cover.

Absinthe is all over Prague, and if you want to dabble in the green fairy's magic, there are worse places than the sophisticated cocktail bar Hemingway, which is named after the man himself. You won't find any flaming absinthe here, but you will find a range of interesting cocktails, alongside Champagne and 200 varieties of rum—the famous writer's drinks of choice. It's worth reserving a table on weekends.

A classy wine bar and restaurant, with high ceilings, soft lighting, and a vast selection of vintages, including some particularly fine wines from the Czech Republic. Great steak here, too.

With 30 Czech craft beers on tap, this is the place to go in Staré Mĕsto if you're hunting for an unusual brew in a fun environment. The owners scoured the countryside for their beers, and one, run by a husband-and-wife team, has a cheeky name that speaks to the brewer's gratitude for his partner. Try a flight of beers to taste a few different brews. There are now four of the pubs around town.

Part nightclub, part performance space, the Roxy doubles as a residence for DJs and as a popular venue for electronica and touring cult bands. The large former theater has a comfortable, lived-in feel that borders on warehouse chic. All exits from the club are final, and patrons are encouraged not to hang around the area. Upstairs, the NoD space has all manner of bizarre acts. 

Hidden in the side streets behind Old Town Square, this basement has been around since the 15th century and has been a cozy club with good music since 2000. The house bands are decent and play jazz, blues, or fusion, depending on the night. Its central location means there's mainly an international crowd, but you can still see some classic Czech sights—a sleeping dachshund perched on a barstool, unaware of and unimpressed by the stage acts, for example.