2 Best Sights in Mljet, Southern Dalmatia

Most people come to Mljet to visit the peaceful national park that covers the entire western part of the island and encompasses the towns of Pomena and Polače. It has miles of dense pine forests, shady biking and walking trails, and two interconnected bright-blue saltwater lakes, Malo jezero (Little Lake) and Veliko jezero (Big Lake). The Benedictine monks who owned the island from 1191 to 1410 dug a transport channel to the coast through the lakes, which turned them from freshwater to saltwater. In the middle of Veliko Jezero is the Isle of St. Mary, with its charming 12th-century monastery, now a small restaurant. You can reach the Isle of St. Mary by boat or kayak from the small bridge, Mali Most. Mountain bikes are also available to rent at Mali Most or from Hotel Odisej in Pomena. The section of the park that includes the lakes and the monastery is ticketed; park entrances are within walking distance from the ports in Polače or Pomena. Malo jezero is a short walk from the entrance in Pomena.

There are idyllic swimming spots all around Mljet, but the village of Babino Polje in the center of the island is home to the most magical of all. Greek legend has it that when the hero Odysseus was shipwrecked off the island known as Ogygia, he swam into a cave where he was met by a nymph called Calypso; he was so bewitched that he stayed with her for the next seven years. The cave is tricky to reach so there are never any crowds, which adds to its mystique.

You can get there directly by boat or, if you're traveling by road, park at the Tommy market in Babino Polje and follow the signs through the olive groves on foot. The walk takes around an hour and includes a steep downhill section and uneven rocks, so make sure to wear decent shoes and bring water. Once you arrive, you can jump off the rocks and swim through a short tunnel into the cave; aim to arrive around noon, when the sun is high and the water is aquamarine. There is a makeshift café perched on the rocks above the cave; there may or may not be someone working there, but it makes a great place to stop for a break.