4 Best Sights in Slavonia, Croatia

One of the most celebrated wineries and restaurants in Croatia, the progressive Josić Winery, headed by the brilliant Damir Josić in the settlement of Zmajevac, is a must-visit. It is located on a steep deeply-cut road formed by gullies called a surduk, which is flanked by wine cellars dug into the hill above called gatori. Josić is the best-known but there are other smaller wineries on the same road which can be visited by appointment or during the "wine marathon" that takes place every September. The on-site restaurant, with a romantic indoor setting and lively atmosphere on the terrace, is deservedly popular for its traditional meals, including stews cooked over an open fire at the entrance. Call ahead to arrange a tour of the cellars and a wine tasting; those craving a glass of red wine in this land of whites will be happy to learn that although 50% of its production is Graševina, Josić is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Cuvée.

A wine cellar, restaurant, hotel, and history lesson all rolled into one, Stari Podrum is the old cellar of one of Croatia's most renowned wineries, Iločki Podrumi, and a must-visit when in Ilok (even if you're not into drinking wine). The Odescalchi family began producing high-class wines here in the 18th century, including the celebrated Traminac varietal, which was served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. A private tour will take you through the atmospheric cellars, past Slavonian oak barrels to the prestigious archive wines and old bottles, full of dust and cobwebs, that were hidden behind a wall for protection during the Homeland War. You can organize a tour and tasting for around €10. The on-site restaurant serves delicious Slavonian dishes, including melt-in-your-mouth black pork dishes; you can eat inside surrounded by traditional embroidery and heavy wooden furniture or outdoors in the sunny central courtyard. Accommodations can also be arranged in one of 18 spacious and comfortable on-site rooms.

If you only visit one winery in the Golden Valley, make it Krauthaker. Vlado Krauthaker was one of the first private wine producers to emerge after the fall of communism, opening his winery in 1992. He is still widely considered one of the best (and most humble) winemakers in the country, producing a dozen varietals including award-winning Chardonnay. The location is lovely, with a terrace overlooking the town, a small pond and bridge, and colorful wine barrels scattered around the premises. Call ahead to arrange a visit.

There are 30 different wineries to choose from around Kutjevo; the biggest, and oldest, is Kutjevačko Vinogorje. The story of this winery is the story of Kutjevo itself; its cellars date back to 1232, when the town was founded by Cistercian monks from Hungary. Over the years, it passed into the hands of Ottomans, Jesuits, Habsburgs, and private families, and the stories of each of these eras and the influence they left on Kutjevo are etched chronologically onto the Slavonian oak barrels in the cellar. Ask your guide about the legend of Maria Theresa Habsburg and her dalliances on the circular stone table (where wine tastings are done). Call ahead to reserve an appointment.