9 Best Sights in Kvarner, Croatia

Tucked into a well-protected bay midway down the island, Cres Town is set around a lovely little fishing harbor, small but perfectly formed, with numerous Gothic and Renaissance churches, monasteries, and palaces. For the most part these are in the Old Town, which sits protected by winged Venetian lions atop three 16th-century gates, the only remains of a defensive wall. A small harbor (Mandrać), as well as a municipal loggia built in the 15th-century, remain the soul of the town.

The town beach, at Camp Kovačine, holds a Blue Flag award for cleanliness. To get there, follow the path around the harbor from the main road and keep going for at least 15 minutes along the promenade, where you'll find spots to jump into the water and the odd café or restaurant to keep you fueled. Although the seaside here is man-made, it somehow doesn't detract too much from the experience.

A fine spot from which to admire the splendors of the Kvarner Bay, the Kastav—11 km (7 miles) northwest of Rijeka—was originally a medieval fortress comprising nine defensive towers. The old hilltop village sits at 1,200 feet and is still home to some 900 residents. The backside of the hilltop village is blanketed by a forest area with biking, hiking, and horseback riding trails leading from the loggia to the woods. The town is a popular venue for regular events throughout the year, from the monthly Zeleni Kastav organic green market to the summer Kastav Blues and Cultural Festival, the Bela Nedeja young white wine festival in October, and the traditional bell ringers during the Carnival season in February. Having been home to wealthy and powerful clans in the past, the tiny town has many splendid buildings from throughout the ages. E-bike rentals are available at the forest entrance.

Just 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Opatija, the lovely town of Lovran is home to good swimming coves, Habsburg villas, and paths up to Mt. Učka Nature Park. Massive chestnut trees dot the medieval town, giving shady relief from the sun on long summer days. If the crowds of Opatija leave you no place for peace and quiet, walk along the Lungomare through Ičići and Ika (or take Bus No. 32) to Lovran, where you can take in the sea air that lured Austrian royalty to winter here. If you find yourself on the Opatija Riviera in October, don't miss Lovran's Marunada (Chestnut Festival). 

If you enjoy walking by the sea, set off along the magnificent paved waterfront Lungomare. Built in 1889, this 12-km (7½-mile) path leads from the fishing village of Volosko through Opatija—passing in front of old hotels, parks, and gardens and around yacht basins—all the way past the villages of Ičići and Ika to Lovran. In the middle you'll find the popular town beach that fronts the center of Opatija. Close to many cafés, ice cream shops, and other essentials, the beach also has a couple of protected sections of water for safe swimming.

From gentle hiking to mountain biking, climbing, and paragliding, all are available in the 160 square km (62 square miles) of Mt. Učka Nature Park, a series of peaks that help shelter the Liburnia Riviera (the official name for the stretch of coast centered on Opatija) and the islands from weather systems to the north. Hiking trails leading toward the summit of the Učka range start from all the resorts along the coast. A climb up to the fine stone lookout tower at the summit of the highest peak, Vojak (4,596 feet), can be well worth it, but it is not for the faint of heart nor inexperienced, out-of-shape hiking enthusiasts. On a clear day, the view offers a distant tour of the islands of Kvarner Bay, the Italian Alps, and perhaps even an indistinct view of Venice. Most routes up to the heights lead through the forest so that you can trek in summer without overheating. Along the way, you'll find natural springs to quench your thirst, ponds, tumbling waterfalls (in the wetter months), impressive natural stone columns, and several hundred caves. The local inhabitants include deer, wild boar, and bears in the park's northernmost sections. Humans have also been living in these hills for centuries, rearing cattle, farming, and working the forest; you'll come across numerous tiny villages and historical sites if you roam far enough. If you're running short on time, many mountain-biking tracks throughout the park offer the chance to expand your lungs on the way up and test your nerve rattling back down to the coast. There is also the possibility to drive to the top and take in the views from the stone tower. There is an information point with maps and souvenirs on the road leading to the summit called Poklon. At Poklon, hikers will find two great restaurants with accommodation and a mountain-hiking hut that sleeps 18. There's also a modern educational center.

Risnjak is a popular destination year-round. In winter you'll find a healthy contingent of snow aficionados desperately trying to avoid a trip up to Austria to sample the real thing. In summer, however, as the sun and the tourists beat down upon the coast, this is perhaps the best place to be. The cool mountain air—the average temperature in the region in July is around 16°C (60°F)—is a bonus to Risnjak's virtually unpopulated landscape.

You'll be free to commune with the locals, which include deer, bear, wildcat, and lynx (ris), from which the park takes its name. Geologic and botanical features are occasionally explained by English-language information points over which you may stumble on one of the more popular walking routes. Marked trails can occupy you for an hour's evening stroll to a full seven-day trek on the monstrous Rijeka Mountain Transversal from one side of Gorski Kotar to the other. Hiking huts are strung across the peaks to accommodate such ambitious expeditions. More information regarding these multiday hiking trips is available from the Croatian Mountaineering Association.

The park information office is in the village of Crni Lug, at the eastern entrance to the park. Near the park entrance is a guesthouse and restaurant, Pension NP Risnjak, open year-round. You can easily explore the gentler trails from either Rijeka or Delnice on day trips. Paths from the villages of Razloge and Kupari lead up to the source of the wild Kupa River, which can then be followed down the slopes through the "Valley of the Butterflies." 

On the edge of town, the green expanse of Komrčar Park, laid out in the 19th century, offers avenues lined with pine trees for gentle strolling and access down to the sea. Although the Old Town and its immediate surroundings are Rab's chief treasures, this park is characteristic of the abundance of green areas on Rab that are conducive for escaping the sun on hot days or laying a blanket down under one of the big trees and taking a nap.

After a few days of dipping your toes in the water and basking in the sun, you might be itching for a diversionary outing. The Miomirisni otočki vrt is a pleasant place to spend the afternoon—rain or shine—sitting on the terrace admiring the sea of lavender on the hilltop. A donkey, a rabbit, and a small sheep delight visitors, especially children. A small shop in a wooden building sells organic products like soaps, marmalades, and, of course, lavender oil.

The grounds of Park Angiolina are a wonderful spread of palm-punctuated lawns with a botanical garden. The vegetation is strikingly lush, including cacti, bamboo, and magnolias, plus neatly kept beds of colorful flowers and sweet-scented shrubs. Indeed, Opatija as a whole is a town saturated with botanical splendor. Iginio Scarpa, an aristocrat from Rijeka and the first settler in Opatija, began importing exotic plants and the tradition has survived into the present. The camellia is the symbol of the city.