8 Best Sights in Ghent and the Leie, Belgium

Construction on the cathedral of St. Bavo (or Sint-Baaf) began in the 12th century but it wasn't finished for hundreds of years. Consequently, you can spy every flavor of medieval Gothic in its stonework, from the more austere early sculpting to the fine Brabantine style that swept the Low Countries in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside is breathtaking but, for the past five centuries, most visitors come here for one thing: to see the famous Ghent Altarpiece, one of the most influential paintings of the Middle Ages.

The altarpiece, a series of 12 panels, was created by the brothers Jan and Hubert van Eyck and has long lived in infamy. It has been the victim of several thefts, and after one of its lower panels was stolen in 1934, it was never recovered (a replica stands in its place), giving rise to numerous conspiracy theories and inspiring Albert Camus's novel The Fall. Ongoing restoration of the altarpiece since 2012 has seen what remains gradually returned to its original condition, with visitors able to see the restoration work up close at the Museum of Fine Arts. The rest now sits in a newly built visitor center, with augmented-reality tours offering an in-depth look at the history of this iconic artwork.

Elsewhere, the cathedral has many works of art. Its ornate pulpit, made of white Italian marble and black Danish oak, was carved in the 18th century by the sculptor Laurent Delvaux. A Rubens masterpiece, Saint Bavo's Entry into the Monastery, also hangs in one of the chapels. Other treasures include a baroque-style organ built in 1623 and a crypt crammed with tapestries, church paraphernalia, and 15th- and 16th-century frescoes.

The 13th-century Church of Our Lady is arguably the grander of the two city center churches, though little remains of the original facade after the church was largely destroyed and rebuilt after the Battle of Westrozebeke in 1382. A 14th-century addition, in the form of the Count's Chapel, was built as a personal mausoleum for Count Lodewijk van Male; it, too, was heavily bombarded during World War II but has been well restored. A number of fine artworks hang here and in the church, including the Erection of the Cross by Flemish master Anthony Van Dyck. Famously, this is where the looted 500 gilded spurs, taken from the defeated French knights in the 1302 Battle of the Golden Spurs, were hung afterwards; these were likely later taken away by the French but were replaced in 1952 by replicas that still hang here. At the time of writing, a new augmented-reality exhibition was to be launched in the summer of 2022, where visitors can learn of the history of the battle while touring the church. Nearby, you'll also find the Artillery Tower, which was part of the original 14th-century fortifications. 

Built on the banks of the river from blue Tournai stone, the 13th-century Church of Our Lady of Pamele is a fine example of the Scheldt Gothic style. It lies across the river from the center in what was a separate town until the 1950s. To the rear of the church, you can see the tombs of the Lords of Oudenaarde, though these have been badly damaged. Entrance is only on weekends, but even if you can't venture inside, it's worth visiting as part of a stroll along the historic riverfront. To the north lies the stately Huis de Lailing, a 15th-century mansion that used to hold the town's tapestry collection until it was moved to the MOU. Further south is the rose-colored Maagdendale Abbey, founded in 1233 and now a school for the arts. 

Much of the current church building was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. By the mid-1700s, though, it had received a Baroque makeover, with its impressive pulpit one of few surviving items from that era. Come the 19th century, the church acquired its current neo-Gothic interior and spectacular murals. Most prized of all are the relics of St. Bartholemew, which were moved here in 1515. Since then, a procession has taken place on the Sunday around his saint's day (August 24), where the relics are carried from the church and paraded around the city, followed by a folk festival on the main square. 

Like many of the early medieval churches, St. Martin's has been rebuilt and renovated numerous times since it was first constructed in the 12th century. Among its large collection of medieval art, the crown jewels are the 16th-century altarpiece Triptych of the Holy Spirit by Kortrijk-born Bernard de Rijckere and a magnificent 6.5-meter-high tabernacle tower with some fine reliefs. A free brochure explains many of the artworks. You can also climb its 246-step tower for sweeping views of the city; tickets for this are free but you'll need to scan the QR code at the gate to download them. 

This whitewashed church on the banks of the Leie likely dates back to the 11th century. Built using limestone from Tournai, shipped via the rivers Scheldt and Leie, it was heavily renovated in 1900, creating its current neo-Gothic hall. In the graveyard, you’ll find the resting places of many of the artists who made the village their home, including Albijn van den Abeele and George Minne, whose grave lies beneath a bronze cast of a mother cradling her child. Inside are a number of impressive works, including a large panel by Gustave van de Woestyne. Behind the church, you’ll also spy a much-admired 17th-century farmhouse linked to the old abbey, which has been featured in many classic paintings. Stroll the waterside for one of the more peaceful, scenic stretches of the river. 

Perhaps Belgium's best example of Scheldt-Gothic, St. Nicholas's Church was built in the 11th century in Romanesque style, destroyed a century later after two disastrous fires, and later rebuilt by prosperous merchants. During the French Revolution, the church was used as a stable, and its treasures were ransacked. The tower, one of the many soaring landmarks of this city's famed skyline, dates from about 1300 and was the first belfry in Ghent.

This Benedictine abbey is just one of those remarkable sights you find in small Flemish cities like Dendermonde. The building is breathtaking, a vast rose redbrick, gabled facade in the Flemish neo-Renaissance style, interrupted only by the Gothic twin towers of the church. The interior may only be visited once a year, on Whit Monday (2–6 pm). You can, however, buy its tripel-style beer, which is made externally by Brewery de Block, at the Liturgisch Kunstapostolaat on Dijkstraat any time.