Grand Phoenix
$$
Formerly Tina's, this restaurant still occupies a pretty, green-and-white wooden building that's garlanded year-round with Christmas lights, a harbinger of the good vibes within, and it's still the best place to eavesdrop on island gossip, as government functionaries file in for lunch (at least when day-trippers don't take over). In a trim room or on a breezy though viewless verandah, dine on old-time dishes like souse or more upscale specialties such as velvety pumpkin soup, proper escargots, and tender lobster in a sultry creole or (even better) tangy garlic sauce.
