Fodor's Expert Review O'Reilly 304

For somewhere that's set firmly in the modern day (and to see what Havana's future is all about), head to O'Reilly 304, a funky gin and tapas bar set up by owner José Carlos. Downstairs is packed with locals and tourists, eyeing up the elaborate cocktails mixed by bartender Wilson Hernandez (among the best you'll see or taste anywhere in the world), while upstairs, surrounded by bare-brick walls, patrons enjoy innovative tapas dishes such as ceviche, croquetas, or tacos (between CUC$3 and CUC$6 per dish).