Fodor's Expert Review Becco

Every city center needs a place like this, with a drop-in bar and lively dining room. At lunchtime no-time-to-dawdle business types tuck into gnochi osso bucco with gremolata, while those with a sweet tooth will go weak at the knees over a decadently refreshing mixed gelato with almond praline. Things get a little moodier at night, when a Campari and soda at the bar is an almost compulsory precursor to dinner.