9 Best Sights in Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), The Central Coast

Mine Action Visitor Center

Fodor's choice

Around 15 million tons of U.S. munition were dropped over Vietnam between 1965 and 1975 and at least 10% of those failed to detonate. Since 1975, this unexploded ordnance have been the cause of more than 100,000 injuries and fatalities, a large percentage of these victims were children. With the U.S. focus on defending the demilitarized zone (DMZ) that separated the two countries, Quang Tri Province was the most heavily bombed—more than 72 million square meters of land have been mapped as hazardous. The Mine Action Visitor Center in Dong Ha is a joint venture between the international NGO–operated Project RENEW and the Department of Foreign Affairs, providing visitors with constantly updated information on the devastation caused, as well as heart-warming stories of recovery and survival. Unlike many of military sites along the DMZ, the center provides expert English speaking guides, which makes it an absolute must on any DMZ itinerary, especially if you have chosen to go without a guide. The site is about 150 meters (492 feet) after Ly Thuong Kiet Street intersects with Hung Vuong Street. Turn left into the Kid First Village where the visitor center is located.

Camp Carroll

Camp Carroll was one of the nine U.S. artillery bases located along the DMZ. It was home to the 3rd Marine Regiment and the most powerful artillery used during the war. Many battles were fought here, but the biggest and bloodiest of all was the Easter Tet Offensive when the North Vietnamese stormed the camp and the firebase fell into enemy hands. The site was cleared shortly after the war and is now a pepper plantation. The only visible remains of Camp Carroll are a small concrete platform and a few overgrown trenches. The turn-off to Camp Carroll is 5 km (3 miles) west of Cam Lo, 24 km (15 miles) northeast of Dakrong Bridge, and 37 km (23 miles) east of the Khe Sanh bus station.

Con Thien Firebase

Can cu Con Tien was known as the Hill of Angels, or "Meat Grinder" to the United States Marine Corps stationed here during the fierce fighting and artillery strikes of 1967–1968. Con Thien Firebase was the northwest anchor of the famed (and failed) McNamara Line, where over 500 million landmines and 20,000 listening devices were dropped along the south Vietnam border by the U.S., in an attempt to detect and prevent incursions by the North Vietnam army across the DMZ. Nothing much remains (it’s now a peaceful rubber plantation) except some big circular duck ponds to represent the thousands of troops from both sides who lost their lives here, but the hauntingly beautiful location and the expansive views from the top make it a worthwhile stop on a tour of the DMZ.

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Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Museum

Tour groups flock to the DMZ to walk across the old French bridge, Hien Luong, and wander around the small museum on the north side of the bridge. They also take photos of the flag tower and an odd-looking reunification sculpture, which symbolizes the communication that developed between families divided by the river. Unable to communicate verbally (witness the loudspeakers pocked with bullet holes on display in the museum), they improvised with signals—a white scarf around the head meant someone had been killed and hands crossed behind the back announced that someone had been arrested.

Hamburger Hill

The battle of Hill 937 (Hamburger Hill) raged between the U.S. 101st Airborne Division and the North Vietnamese for 10 long days in May 1969 and marked the beginning of the end for the U.S. involvement in Vietnam. The senseless battle claimed many lives, both Vietnamese and American, and despite the battle being called a victory for the U.S., 16 days later troops were pulled off the hill. Like many of the old U.S. bases along the DMZ, there's little to mark the atrocities that took place here and you need a permit to enter the area. But with a specialist, military guide (for translation and to keep you on the right path) and equally good level of fitness, the 7-km (4-mile) uphill hike through beautiful Ca Tu hill-tribe villages and jungle paths to the base and the steep 900-meter (3,000-foot) climb to the top are rewarded by views stretching over the Laos border to the west and Quang Tri to the east. The drive from Hue takes two hours; on a DMZ tour Aluoi would normally be one of the last photo stops. If you plan on doing the guided trek, leave early and keep further sightseeing plans for other bases in the vicinity—Cunningham, Ershine, and Razor, as well as Hill 1175. Due to the small risk of unexploded ordinance in the area, a guide is recommended. If going it alone, take enough water and keep to the paths.

The military specialist, Mr. Vu at Annam Tours, provides excellent day trips from Hue to Hamburger Hill and can arrange your permit in advance. Apply three days in advance.

Khe Sanh

One of the biggest battles of the war—and one of the most significant American losses—took place on January 21, 1968 at Khe Sanh, the site of a U.S. Army base 145 km (90 miles) northwest of Hue. Khe Sanh lies in a highland valley not far from Highway 9, which links Vietnam with southern Laos. General William Westmoreland, the commander of U.S. forces in Vietnam from 1965 to 1968, became convinced in late 1967 that the North Vietnamese were massing troops in the area in preparation for a campaign to seize South Vietnam's northernmost provinces. Relying on an analogy with the French defeat at Dien Bien Phu, he reinforced Khe Sanh with thousands of Marines and ordered the dropping of more than 75,000 tons of explosives on the surrounding area. The North Vietnamese suffered horrendous casualties—estimates are that as many as 10,000 North Vietnamese soldiers and hundreds of U.S. Marines lost their lives, a sacrifice that seems senseless given the fact that the American forces abandoned the base shortly after, in June 1968. Although the debate continues, many military experts believe that the battle at Khe Sanh was merely a feint designed to pull American forces away from the population centers of South Vietnam in preparation for a massive assault by the North Vietnamese in the Tet Offensive of early 1968. Although there is only a small museum commemorating the battle at Khe Sanh, a visit to the base provides a sense of how isolated and besieged the U.S. Marines must have felt as they were bombarded from the surrounding mountains. In the museum, which opens whenever tours come through the area, there are a number of interesting pictures of the battle and a book for visitors' comments that reflects the continuing debate about the American presence in Vietnam.

Rockpile

Once an important observation point for the U.S Marines, the Rockpile (a 755-foot karst formation know in Vietnamese as Thon Khe Tri) was used for tracking the north Vietnamese army crossing in to the south and directing U.S military fire at their suspected positions. Other than the Rockpile, nothing remains in memorial to the site, but it's worth a stop for the scenery alone if you are traveling onwards to the Khe San Combat base.

Truong Son Martyrs Cemetery

Stretching over 202 acres, 27 km (8 miles) northwest of Dong Ha, this somber memorial site marks the final resting place for over 10,000 Vietnamese soldiers and civilians who lost their lives defending and maintaining the Ho Chi Minh Trail during the Vietnam War.

Each tomb is marked with the word "liet si" ("martyr"); some are adorned with pictures or sculptures of the deceased, and others lay empty, a mark of respect to one of the 300,000 soldiers that remain missing in action to this day. Along the way to Truong Son you'll pass Con Thien Firebase, an old French bunker located 1.5 km (1 mile) down a dirt track to the east of the road, barely visible through the rubber plantation that has taken over the area.

Vinh Moc Tunnels

Local villagers built the 2-km-long (1½-mile-long) Vinh Moc Tunnels during the early 1960s to escape American bombing. The tunnels were later used by the North Vietnamese army to transport goods to Con Co Island. Less claustrophobic than the ones at Cu Chi near Ho Chi Minh City, these tunnels are a testament to the determination and ingenuity of the Vietnamese people under extreme circumstances. Guides are available at the small museum on-site; we suggest grabbing one to get the most out of your visit.

If you have time, head down to the beautiful beach that runs along the eastern perimeter of the tunnels.

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