4 Best Sights in Tsuwano, Western Honshu

While spartan, the house is worth a visit to commemorate the achievements of this gifted genius who called Tsuwano his home. Ogai Mori (1862–1922), son of the head physician to the daimyo of Shimane, became a doctor at the young age of 19 and, in spite of courting trouble for his outspoken criticism of Japan's backward ways, went on to become the author of such acclaimed novels as The Wild Geese and Vita Sexualis. He was also a prominent figure in the fledgling government behind the Meiji Restoration. From Tsuwano Station it's a 12-block walk south along the main road, or take the bus and get off at Ogai Kyukyo-mae.

Tsuwano puts its geothermal gifts to good use at the spa at this hot spring. Inside and out, the tubs have great views of the surrounding gumdrop-shape volcanic peaks. It's west of everything else in town, across the river from the Washibara Hachiman-gu (a shrine where traditional horseback archery contests are held the second Sunday of April every year), but still not too far to get to by rented bike.

This is one of the five most revered Inari shrines in Japan. Inari shrines are connected with the fox, a Shinto symbol of luck and cleverness. People come to pray for good fortune in business and health. A series of 1,174 red wooden gates are suspended above steps that climb up the western side of the valley to the shrine, and the journey is a nice hike with a jaw-dropping view of the valley waiting for you at the top. From the station, follow the streamside Tono-machi-dori past the Katorikku Kyokai (Catholic church), but before crossing the river turn right onto the small lane. The lane leads to the tunnel-like approach through the gates to the structure high on a cliffside. You can also take a bus that approaches by a back road; the Tsuwano Tourist Information Office can help with this. Yasaka Jinja is another shrine on the site, where every July 20 and 27 sees the famous Sagi-mai Shinji (i.e., Heron Dance) Festival.

The local castle was another casualty of the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, but from the derelict ruins there is an awesome panoramic view of the dormant volcanic cone of Aono-yama to the east and the entire valley stretching out below. To get here you can hike a marked trail that leads from Taikodani Inari-Jinja Shrine or take a chairlift from below the Taikodani Inari-Jinja Shrine for ¥700 round-trip. The chairlift takes only 5 minutes, and from the top it's about a 20-minute moderate hike to the castle foundations.