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Marrakesh has arguably the largest selection of restaurants in Morocco, which serve equal parts Moroccan and international cuisine at varying price points. Restaurant dining, once reserved mainly for the wealthy or very special occasions, is now part of the norm for virtually all Marrakshis. Options vary from inexpensive snack bars, cafés, and fast-food restaurants to the more pricey French bistros, sushi bars, and sophisticated Moroccan fine-dining options. In restaurants where alcohol is served, meal prices tend to be high as licenses are expensive. Home entertaining, however, with lavish meals to impress visitors, is still very much part and parcel of the old Marrakshi way of life. To get an idea (albeit a rather expensive one) of traditional yet sumptuous Moroccan entertaining, treat yourself to an evening at one of Marrakesh’s popular riad gastronomique restaurants in the medina. Morocco is a Muslim country, so don't assume that all restaurants will serve alcohol. Licenses are expensive and, inside the medina especially, are very hard to come by.
You can also eat well at inexpensive sidewalk cafés in both the medina and Guéliz. Here, don't miss out on a famous local dish called tanjia, made popular by workers who slow-cook lamb or beef in an earthenware pot left in hot ashes for the whole day. Food is cooked and served from an outdoor street-kitchen with shared tables, but it's a hearty meal with locals for around 30 DH.
Most restaurants in Marrakesh tend to fall into two categories. They're either fashionable, flashy affairs, mostly in Guéliz and the outlying areas of Marrakesh, which serve à la carte European, Asian, and Moroccan cuisine, or they're more traditional places, often tucked inconspicuously into riads and old palaces in the medina. Both types can be fairly pricey, and, to avoid disappointment, are best booked in advance. They also tend to open quite late, usually not before 7:30 in Guéliz and 8 in the medina, although most people don't sit down to eat until 9 or 9:30. In recent years a third dining category, the dinner-cabaret, has become a popular format, attracting tourists, expats, and well-heeled Moroccans for their entertainment value, if not necessarily for their cuisine.
There's no set system for tipping. Your check will indicate that service has been included in the charge; if not, tip 10% or 15% for excellent service.
This modern terrace café at the edge of the Marrakesh Plaza, in the heart of Guéliz, is a popular lunch spot. The range of salads is imaginative, and even the half portion makes a satisfying meal; main dishes include chicken in mushroom sauce as well as several great pasta options. A kids' menu is available, as well as ice cream, delicious homemade pastries, and cakes.
If you're looking for light, healthy meals or snacks Ayaso functions as both a restaurant and a specialty food store catering to vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free diets. The fresh juices and smoothies are worth the stop alone.
Snazzy, jazzy, and a little razamatazzy, Le Comptoir is a fusion of bar, club, and restaurant that's been a nighttime draw for hip Marrakshis and visitors since the turn of the 21st century. The restaurant serves Moroccan, international, and Asian dishes; it's expensive, but the main attraction isn't the food, it's the trendy atmosphere and free entertainment---live musicians, belly-dance cabaret (starting at 10:30 pm), and an upstairs DJ spinning chilled-out world-music vibes until 3 am. There's a small dance floor for those who want to swirl to the tunes.
This family-run and family-friendly eatery at the edge of Guéliz serves up tasty homemade French-style tarts and quiches, along with daily specials such as moussaka with salad. On Thursday the house special is English-style fish-and-chips, which are possibly the best in town. The French owners, Axel and Charlotte, are both delightful and you'll soon feel like part of the family. Fresh juices, and homemade cakes and desserts such as strawberry gâteau and lemon-meringue pie, are served in huge portions.
It's cash only and there's no alcohol.
Le Loft is popular for its chic setting and bistro menu of steaks, giant Caesar salads, pasta dishes, and various vegetarian options. Bentwood chairs, cushioned booths, bare brick walls, suspended industrial lighting, and huge pop-art prints give a funky, modern vibe. It can also get very smoky and noisy. The fixed-price two-course lunch menu is a good value at 130 DH.
On a rooftop hidden deep within the northern quarter of the souks, this all-day (and evening) restaurant is a popular spot for expats, tourists, and trendy locals. The menu mixes Moroccan and international cuisine, with everything from fish tagine and tanjia (slow-cooked beef or lamb) to pasta dishes and steaks. The contemporary variations on a Moroccan theme extend also to the decor—intimate cushioned booths are lit by woven lampshades and decorated with modern artwork. It's a good place for families who want a little space out of the mayhem of the souks where tired kids can sprawl on the benches. In the evening, the lantern-lit terrace provides the perfect ambience for cocktails and music. Alcohol is served.
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