6 Best Sights in Around Jerusalem and the Dead Sea, Israel

Church of the Nativity

Fodor's choice

The stone exterior of this church marking the traditional site of the birth of Jesus is crowned by the crosses of the three denominations sharing it: the Greek Orthodox, Latins (Roman Catholic, represented by the Franciscan order), and Armenian Orthodox. The blocked, square entranceway dates from the time of the Byzantine emperor Justinian (6th century); the arched entrance (also blocked) within the Byzantine one is 12th-century Crusader; and the current low entrance was designed in the 16th century to protect the worshippers from attack by hostile Muslim neighbors.

The interior is vast and has benefited from a recent renovation that revealed exquisite gold-tiled mosaics on the walls. In the central nave, a large wooden trapdoor reveals a remnant of a striking mosaic floor from the original basilica, built in the 4th century by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, the Roman emperor who first embraced Christianity. Emperor Justinian's rebuilding two centuries later enlarged the church, creating its present-day plan and structure, including the 44 red-stone columns with Corinthian capitals that run the length of the nave in two paired lines.

This is the oldest standing church in the country. When the Persians invaded in 614, they destroyed every Christian church and monastery in the land except this one. Legend holds that the church was adorned with a wall painting depicting the Nativity, including the visit to the infant Jesus by the Three Wise Men of the East. For the local artist, "east" meant Persia, and he dressed his wise men in Persian garb. The Persian conquerors did not understand the picture's significance, but "recognized" themselves in the painting and so spared the church. In the 8th century, the church was pillaged by the Muslims and was later renovated by the Crusaders. Patches of 12th-century mosaics high on the walls, the medieval oak ceiling beams, and figures of saints on the Corinthian pillars hint at its medieval splendor.

The elaborately ornamented front of the church serves as the parish church of Bethlehem's Greek Orthodox community. The right transept is theirs, too, but the left transept belongs to the Armenian Orthodox. The altar in the left transept is known as the altar of the kings, because tradition holds this to be the place where the three Magi dismounted. For centuries, all three "shareholders" in the church have vied for control of the holiest Christian sites in the Holy Land. The 19th-century Status Quo Agreement that froze their respective rights and privileges in Jerusalem's Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the Tomb of the Virgin pertains here, too: ownership, the timing of ceremonies, number of oil lamps, and so on are all clearly defined.

From the right transept at the front of the church, descend to the Grotto of the Nativity, encased in white marble. Long lines can form at the entrance to the grotto, making the suggestion of spending just an hour to see the church an impossibility. Once a cave—precisely the kind of place that might have been used as a barn—the grotto has been reamed, plastered, and decorated beyond recognition. Immediately on the right is a small altar, and on the floor below it is the focal point of the entire site: a 14-point silver star with the Latin inscription "hic de virgine maria jesus christus natus est" (Here of the Virgin Mary, Jesus Christ was born). The Latins placed the original star here in 1717 but lost control of the altar 40 years later to the more influential Greek Orthodox. In 1847 the star mysteriously disappeared, and pressure from the Turkish sultan compelled the Greeks to allow the present Latin replacement to be installed in 1853. The Franciscan guardians do have possession, however, of the little alcove a few steps down on the left at the entrance to the grotto, said to be the manger where the infant Jesus was laid.

Monastery of St. George

Fodor's choice

Reached by a 20-minute hike, this ancient Greek Orthodox monastery is built into the cliffs overlooking Wadi Qelt, a desert streambed that fills with water during the winter rains. The monastery was one of many established in the desert outside Jerusalem in the 4th century, and it has drawn devoted monks and pilgrims ever since. With several previous versions destroyed in various wars and earthquakes, most of the current building stems from an extensive renovation project in the 19th century, but some sections are much older. There are mosaics from the 6th century, elaborate wooden doors from the 12th century, and a chapel inside a cave where some believe the prophet Elijah once took refuge. The monks living here offer visitors coffee, tea, and cold water and are happy to answer questions about their lifestyle. Modest dress is required, including long skirts for women. Both Israeli- and Palestinian-plated cars are allowed here.

Manger Square

Bethlehem's central plaza and the site of the Church of the Nativity, Manger Square is built over the grotto thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. The end of the square opposite the church is the Mosque of Omar, the city's largest Muslim house of worship. The square occupies the center of Bethlehem's Old City and has a tourist information office, several good souvenir shops, and restaurants where you can drink a coffee while people-watching. On Christmas, it fills with lights, street food hawkers, Palestinian marching bands, and merrymakers in Santa hats under a towering tree.

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Nabi Musa

This expansive domed mosque complex was built in the 13th century on the site that Muslims believe to be the tomb of Moses. Wander the halls and courtyards to admire the well-preserved Islamic architecture and peek into the shrine dedicated to Moses. The second floor offers stunning views of the surrounding desert. There are some stands in the shade outside where locals sell tea, cold drinks, and trinkets. Modest dress is required, including long skirts for women. Both Israeli- and Palestinian-plated cars are allowed here.

Qasr Al Yahud

Just outside Jericho, this is the site where Christians believe Jesus was baptized (Matthew 3:13–17) and where the Israelites are said to have crossed the Jordan River to enter the Promised Land (Joshua 3). Back then, the Jordan was a mighty, roaring river; today, it is little more than a silty creek that Israel's Ministry of Environmental Protection monitors for unsafe pollution. The Israel Nature and Parks Authority runs the site and maintains a wooden deck, picnic tables, changing rooms, a coffee shop, and an inexpensive gift shop. You can almost shake hands with the Jordanian soldier guarding the opposite bank. Access to dozens of old churches and monasteries nearby is only possible with coordination with the Israeli army due to old landmines. If you plan to go in the water, you must go in with modest clothing, or a white gown, which can be purchased on-site for 35 shekels. Swimsuits are not allowed.

Trappist Abbey of Latrun

Trappist monks have been producing wine here since the 1890s. The interior of the 19th-century abbey is an odd mix, with round neo-Byzantine arches and apses and a soaring, Gothic-inspired ceiling. Survivors of the Cistercian Order suppressed in the French Revolution, the Trappists keep a vow of silence. But the staff of the shop, which sells wine, olive oil, and other items made on-site, chats with you in English, French, Hebrew, or Arabic, and offers wine tastings. The setting in the foothills is lovely.