Drive 10 minutes through the pale, mountainous sand dunes southwest of Ica, and you'll suddenly see a gathering of attractive, pastel-colored buildings surrounding a patch of green. It's not an oasis on the horizon, but rather the lakeside resort of Huacachina, a palm-fringed lagoon of jade-tinged waters whose sulfurous properties are reputed to have healing powers. The view is breathtaking: a collection of attractive, colonial-style hotels in front of a golden beach, with a backdrop of snow-covered peaks against the distant sky. In the 1920s, Peru's elite traveled here on holiday, and today the spacious resorts still beckon. The lake is a pilgrimage site for those with skin and other health problems, sandboarders who want to tackle the 100-meter (325-foot) dunes, and budget travelers who pitch tents in the sand or sleep under the stars.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
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