Fodor's Expert Review Getsemaní

Once run-down and troubled, the Getsemaní neighborhood just beyond the posher parts of the historic walled city now exudes fresh but still bohemian energy, thanks to an infusion of new restaurants and bars, as well as boutique hotels. Locals hang out and chat on the narrow streets like Callejón Angosto and gather at Plaza de la Santísima Trinidad, the heart of the neighborhood. In the plaza, look for the statue of Pedro Romero, who fought for independence from Spain. Abundant street art along Calle de la Sierpe (and other avenues) and gritty edges keep the scene real and down to earth, at least for now. You can stroll Getsemaní day or night to check things out; weekend evenings are very lively.