Fodor's Expert Review Cocina de Pepina

One of the most recommended local favorites is a no-frills bastion of Cartagena cuisine built on the impressive research and skill of chef and culinary historian María "Pepina" Yances. Although Doña Pepina passed away in 2014, her energy and recipe book have been carried forward by her family, and the restaurant remains a must-visit for those keen to sample local classics. The blackboard menu changes daily, although staples like the mote de queso (a soup of yam, coconut milk, and local cheese) and cabeza de gato (balls of mashed plantain and yam with a zingy tomato-onion relish) will always be on hand. Keep an eye out for the peppers stuffed with ground beef, another punchy perennial favorite.