Getting Here and Around

If you want to begin your trip in Chile, fly into Punta Arenas, the region's principal city, or drive in from Argentina—if you've been visiting El Calafate—and head directly to Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine. Plans to expand the airport in Puerto Natales will also open up more direct routes from Santiago, Punta Arenas, and El Calafate. If you'd rather begin touring the area in Argentina, head on down to Ushuaia: many fly or cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia or vice versa. Remote spots, such as Isla Magdalena or Puerto Williams, can be reached only by boat or airplane.

Air Travel

LATAM (www.lan.com) operates flights daily between Punta Arenas and Santiago, Coyhaique, and Puerto Montt. Sky (www.skyairline.cl) also offers competitive fares and flights to Puerto Natales in summer. Aerovías DAP (www.aeroviasdap.cl) has regularly scheduled flights exclusively in Patagonia, between Punta Arenas, Porvenir, and Puerto Williams. Aerolíneas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com.ar) has service between Buenos Aires, El Calafate, and Ushuaia, Argentina.

Boat Travel

Boat tours are a popular way to see otherwise inaccessible parts of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Cruceros Australis (www.australis.com) runs ships between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia, Argentina, and other destinations along the coast lines. Navimag (www.navimag.com) runs a service between Puerto Natales and Puerto Montt to the north. In Punta Arenas, Transbordadora Austral Broom (www.tabsa.cl) offers daily crossings to Porvenir (two to three hours) and crossings to Puerto Williams.

Bus Travel

The four-hour trip between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales is serviced several times a day by small private companies. The best is Buses Fernández. To travel the longer haul between Punta Arenas, Río Gallegos, and Ushuaia, Argentina, your best bet is Tecni-Austral, based in Argentina and the only regular bus service that crosses the Magellan Strait. Book your ticket in advance.

Bus Contacts

Buses Fernández. Eleuterio Ramirez 399, Puerto Natales, Magallanes, 6160000. 612/411–111; www.busesfernandez.com.

Cootra. Bus station, Puerto Natales, Magallanes, 6160000. 612/412–785; www.cootra.com.ar.

Transportes María José. Av. España 1455, Puerto Natales, Magallanes, 6160000. 612/410--951; www.busesmariajose.com .

Car Travel

If you truly enjoy the call of the open road, there are few places that can rival the vast emptiness and jaw-dropping beauty of Patagonia. Be prepared for miles and miles of semidesert steppes with no gas stations, towns, or even restrooms. Always carry plenty of water, snacks, a jack, and tire-changing tools, with at least one spare. Take extra care when driving on ripio (gravel roads); it's easy to flip small cars at speeds over 80 kmh (55 mph). Fill your tank at every opportunity. If you're not driving, consider simply paying for a remis (car with driver) for day excursions.

Rental Cars

Avis (Emsa). Barros Arana 118, Puerto Natales, Magallanes, 6160000. 612/614–388; www.emsarentacar.com.

Cruise Travel

Cruising is a leisurely and comfortable way to take in the rugged marvels of Patagonia and the southernmost region of the world. Sailing through remote channels and reaching islands virtually untouched by man, you'll witness fjords, snowcapped mountains, granite peaks, and their reflections dominating the glacial lakes. You'll get a close look at elephant seals and colonies of Magellanic penguins and cormorants from the comfort of your vessel and during shore excursions taken in Zodiacs (small motorized boats) led by naturalist guides.

Most short cruises depart from Ushuaia, Argentina, or Punta Arenas, Chile, while longer and more luxurious itineraries typically depart from either Buenos Aires or Santiago. The majority of cruisers plan their trips four to six months ahead of time. Book a year ahead if you're planning to sail on a small adventure vessel, as popular itineraries may be full six to eight months ahead. Cruise Lines International Association (www.cruising.org) lists recognized agents throughout the United States.

Ever since Lars-Eric Lindblad operated the first cruise to the "White Continent" in 1966, Antarctica has exerted an almost magnetic pull for serious travelers. From Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city, you'll sail for two (often rough) days through the Drake Passage. Most visits are to the Antarctic Peninsula, the continent's most accessible region. Accompanied by naturalists, you'll travel ashore in motorized rubber craft called Zodiacs to view penguins and nesting seabirds. More adventurous cruisers can kayak between icebergs and walk, or even camp, on the ice. Founded to promote environmentally responsible travel to Antarctica, the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (401/841–9700 )iaato.org is a good source of information, including suggested readings. Most companies operating Antarctica trips are members of this organization and display its logo in their brochures.

Cruising the southern tip of South America and along Chile's western coast north to the Lake District reveals fjords, glaciers, lagoons, lakes, narrow channels, waterfalls, forested shorelines, fishing villages, and wildlife. Boarding your vessel in Punta Arenas, Chile, or Ushuaia, Argentina, you'll cruise the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel, visiting glaciers, penguin rookeries, and seal colonies before heading north along the fjords of Chile's western coast.

Some ships set sail in the Caribbean and stop at one or two islands before heading south; a few transit the Panama Canal en route. West Coast (U.S.) departures might include one or more Mexican ports before reaching South America. Fourteen- to 21-day cruises are the norm. Vessels vary in the degree of comfort or luxury as well as in what is or isn't included in the price.

Major Cruise Lines

Celebrity Cruises: Fjords, glaciers, and emerald lakes are the highlight of a cruise down the west coast of Chile and back up the Atlantic Coast to Buenos Aires. 305/341–0205 www.celebritycruises.com.

Oceania Cruises: Patagonia voyages with Oceania are as relaxed and elegant as a private country club—mahogany decor, plush carpeting, and grand, sweeping staircases.800/383–8114 www.oceaniacruiseline.com.

Princess Cruises: Trips (in January and February) on this cruise line include eight ports of call in the Argentine and Chilean Patagonia region. 800/774–6237 www.princess.com.

Seabourn Cruise Line: Patagonia cruises with Seabourn include visits to the Beagle Channel and the Chilean fjords.866/755–5619 www.seabourn.com.

Silversea Cruises: Voyages with Silversea dock in Uruguay, the Falkland Islands, and Ushuaia, among others. 954/607–2041 www.silversea.com.