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Menus cover the bases of international cuisines, but don't miss the local bounty—seafood delivered directly from the Pacific Ocean. One local favorite is caldillo de congrio, the hearty fish stew celebrated by poet Pablo Neruda in his "Oda al Caldillo de Congrio." (The lines of the poem are, in fact, the recipe.) A pisco sour—a
Menus cover the bases of international cuisines, but don't miss the local bounty—seafood delivered directly from the Pacific Ocean. One local favorite is caldillo de congrio, the hearty fish stew celebrated by poet Pablo Neruda in his "Oda al Caldillo de Congrio." (The
Menus cover the bases of international cuisines, but don't miss the local bounty—seafood delivered directly from the Pac
Menus cover the bases of international cuisines, but don't miss the local bounty—seafood delivered directly from the Pacific Ocean. One local favorite is caldillo de congrio, the hearty fish stew celebrated by poet Pablo Neruda in his "Oda al Caldillo de Congrio." (The lines of the poem are, in fact, the recipe.) A pisco sour—a cocktail of grape brandy, egg white, and lemon juice—is a great aperitif for any meal, especially when accompanied by a plate of machas a la parmesana, small razor clams served au gratin, baked in lemon juice or with white wine, butter, and grated cheese.
Tempted to try heartier Chilean fare? Pull up a stool at one of the counters at Vega Central and enjoy a traditional pastel de choclo, pie filled with ground beef, chicken, olives, and a boiled egg, topped with mashed corn. Craving seafood? Head to the Mercado Central, where fresh fish is brought in each morning. Want a memorable meal? Trendy restaurants are opening every day in neighborhoods like Bellavista, where hip Santiaguinos come to check out the latest hot spots.
In the neighborhood of Vitacura, a 20- to 30-minute taxi ride from the city center, a complex of restaurants called Borde Río attracts an upscale crowd, but other reservations-only restaurants worth a look are on Alonso de Córdova and Nueva Costanera. El Golf, an area including Avenida El Bosque Norte and Avenida Isidora Goyenechea in Las Condes, has numerous restaurants and cafés. The emphasis is on creative cuisine, so familiar favorites are given a Chilean twist. This is one of the few neighborhoods where you can stroll between restaurants until you find exactly what you want.
Santiaguinos dine a little later than you might expect. Most fancy restaurants don't open for lunch until 1. (You may startle the cleaning staff if you rattle the doors at noon.) Dinner begins at 7:30 or 8, although most places don't get crowded until after 9. Many eateries close for a few hours before dinner and on Sunday night. People do dress smartly for dinner, but a coat and tie are rarely necessary. Avoid shorts, sneakers, and athletic gear, and you should be fine in most places.
Simple but creative dishes using the best and freshest Chilean ingredients appeal to local office workers and visitors alike at this popular downtown spot, where lunch patrons often enjoy a sandwich or soup-salad combo. The menu changes seasonally, with dishes like chicken cashew curry and venison with caponata sharing menu space with grilled bass and chia polenta cake. The restaurant has a good cocktail list, and a short yet decent wine list and does upper-crust business lunches. It is open for early dinners (until 9 pm). Reservations are advisable for lunch, particularly for an outside table.
Amanda Labarca 102 at Moneda, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8340488, Chile
Opened in 1879, this is the oldest restaurant still operating in Chile and remains one of the city's most traditional dining rooms, with red-leather banquettes, mint-green ceramic floors, and huge chandeliers with tulip-shaped globes. Classic dishes such as lomo al ajo arriero (sirloin sautéed with peppers and garlic) are menu staples; if you're after a quick bite, order the Sandwich Barros Luca, as this is where it was created. This restaurant also has a branch for snacks in the Centro Cultural La Moneda, and another on upscale Isidora Goyenechea in El Golf (Las Condes).
Alameda 1570, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8330199, Chile
Behind an anonymous-looking front door lies this charming restaurant, a short drive south of Santiago Centro. Choose your table from the various salons, including the adorable patio or a more private dining space, then pick your dishes from the short yet eclectic blackboard. Run by a husband-and-wife team, Chef Javier Avilés cooks seasonally and simply, allowing the ingredients sourced from small producers to shine. Starters might include wild boar with garlic flowers and yolk or jerky pâté while mains could be lamb with polenta and blackberries.
Santa Elvira 475, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, Chile
This tucked-away two-story downtown lunch spot offers unmissable weekday set menus with appetizer, main dish, iced tea, and choice of coffee or dessert for 9,900 pesos. Dishes adopt modern spins on Chilean and international favorites, such as grain salad with mote (hulled wheat kernels), beef carpaccio, kidneys in cream sauce, or spinach-filled pasta. The kitchen takes a sustainable approach, so there are plenty of dishes that use offal. Vegetarians also have options here, though the protein dishes are more adventurous.
Bombero Ossa 1059, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8320245, Chile
This restaurant inside the sophisticated Hotel Plaza San Francisco serves creative seafood dishes like marinated scallops over octopus carpaccio and cold tomato-and-pepper sauce. Frequented by local business people, Bristol has won several awards and often makes it onto top lists in local media. It's not as well illuminated as it could be and doesn't have much of a view, but what you've got on your plate should make up for it.
Alameda 816, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8330097, Chile
A Chilean institution, this 70-year-old fast-food chain is impeccably clean, and the service is fast and friendly. It's the place to try an Italiano (a hot dog with tomatoes and avocado) or chacarero (hot dog or beef sandwich with green beans, tomato, and chili pepper). Order a jugo de chirimoya (custard apple juice) with your hot dog and take a seat at the bar.
Huérfanos 1296, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8320248, Chile
Pause for a coffee or a cold beer at one of the sidewalk cafés on the west side of Plaza de Armas and let the hustle and bustle of the city flow past you. The coffee is best at the Faisan D'Or, which serves a typical cortado (coffee with warm milk).
Plaza de Armas 430, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8320147, Chile
Where better than to sample fresh Chilean seafood and eat where the locals eat than at Santiago's fish market? Bustling and loud, the market has an ambience you'll want to soak up, whether you visit Donde Augusto and La Joya del Pacífico in the center or at a smaller, less touristy, and cheaper spot such as Marisol or Francisca. The tables may be rickety, but the fish couldn't be fresher and cheaper or the service friendlier. Credit cards are accepted at larger restaurants. The mercado and its restaurants close at 5 pm.
San Pablo 967, Santiago, Santiago Metropolitan, 8320009, Chile
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