The South Restaurants

Churrasco (slow-grilled and -roasted meat), one of the most famous foods of Brazil, originated in Rio Grande do Sul. But the cuisine is eclectic here in cowboy country, and rice and beans sit on southern tables beside Italian and German dishes, thanks to the South's many European immigrants. Look for barreado, a dish from coastal Paraná made by stewing beef, bacon, potatoes, and spices for hours in a clay pot made airtight with moistened manioc flour. Café colonial is the elaborate 5 pm tea—with breads, pies, and German kuchen—popular among the Germans in the South.

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  • 1. Al Dente Ristorante

    $$$ | Auxiliadora

    You may be surprised at the quality and authenticity of the Northern Italian cuisine at this small restaurant in Porto Alegre. Among many excellent choices are garganelli (a variety of pasta from Emilia-Romagna) with salmon in wine sauce and fettuccine nere (fettuccine with a black tinge of squid ink) with caviar sauce. A house novelty is the Italian-gaúcho risotto, made with sun-dried meat, tomatoes, and squash. The decor is sober, with candlelit tables and cream drapes covering most of the walls.

    Rua Mata Bacelar 210, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90540-150, Brazil
    051-3343–1841

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch weekends, Credit cards accepted
  • 2. Gambrinus

    $$$ | Centro

    Porto Alegre's best-known restaurant has been in business at the same spot, steps from city hall at the Mercado Público, since 1889. The walls are covered with Portuguese tiles, antiques, and period photographs exalting those early days. The restaurant is a popular happy-hour spot for politicians and businesspeople. The menu varies daily from beef to fish dishes. One of the highlights is the large Brazilian grey mullet stuffed with shrimp (served Friday and Saturday).

    Rua Borges de Medeiros 85, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90020-020, Brazil
    051-3226–6914

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sat. Closed Sun., Credit cards accepted
  • 3. Al Nur

    $$ | Boa Vista

    The prix-fixe combo at this small but busy restaurant includes such Lebanese staples as kibbe, esfiha (small minced meat pies), tabouleh, hummus, baba ganoush, fried eggplant, pita bread, rice with lentils, spinach, and falafel. These and other options can also be ordered à la carte. Large windows and a colorful decor add to the allure.

    Av. Protásio Alves 616, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90410-004, Brazil
    051-3330–8609

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 4. Café do Porto

    $$ | Moinhos de Vento | Coffee

    One of the trendiest cafés in town, Porto serves several types of coffee, plus drinks, sandwiches, pies, and pastries. Try the espetinho (little skewer of meats and vegetables) combined with a glass of Chardonnay or the house cappuccino. All coffee is Brazil's finest, from the Mogiana region in São Paulo.

    Rua Padre Chagas 293, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90570-080, Brazil
    051-3346–8385

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 5. Constantino Café

    $$$ | Moinhos de Vento

    The real draw at this informal eatery is the setting, in a converted colonial house on one of the city’s liveliest streets. Wind your way through a warren of cozy rooms, or just head straight to the lush, green garden out back, where candles add a romantic glow at night. The menu—Mediterranean with an Asian touch—won’t win awards for imagination, but dishes are well presented and tasty nonetheless.

    Rua Fernando Gomes 44, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90510-010, Brazil
    051-3346–8589

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

  • 6. Dometila

    $ | Moinhos de Vento

    This chic café named after the lover of monarch Dom Pedro I is the place to compensate for the likely excesses of espeto-style churrasco. Order one of the vegetarian sandwiches and sip a local Brut while enjoying the breeze on the smartly lit patio that overlooks a quiet plaza in Moinhos de Vento neighborhood. It's a romantic respite just a few steps away from the boisterious nightlife on Rua Padre Chagas.

    Praça Doutor Maurício Cardoso 49, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90570010, Brazil
    051-3346–1592

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch. Closed Mon.
  • 7. Floriano Spiess Cozinha de Autor

    $$$$ | Boa Vista

    On a leafy square in an upscale suburb, this place serves contemporary cuisine at its most creative. The eponymous chef offers a tasting menu (which must be booked the day before) of small, stunning dishes that are loaded with flavor. The dazzle and glitz extends to the space—all grays and blacks with mirrors and LED tube lights, with a well-dressed clientele. À la carte options are also available, and the wine list is extensive, albeit with few Brazilian options.

    Praça Japão 155, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 91340-380, Brazil
    051-3237–7601

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Tues.–Fri., Reservations essential
  • 8. Galpão Crioulo

    $$$$ | Centro

    One of Porto Alegre's largest churrascarias, Galpão Crioulo serves traditional espeto-corrido—a prix-fixe, never-ending rotation of tender roasted and grilled meats brought to the table, accompanied by a salad buffet. If a full espeto-corrido sounds too much, ask for the miniespeto (a small sampler skewer of all meats). Another option is the comidas campeiras (countryside food) buffet, with plenty of dishes featuring rice, beans, and squash. You can also try chimarrão (a maté tea) at a tasting booth where the staff demonstrates the traditional way to drink it. Gaúcho musical performances take place in the evening.

    Rua Otávio Francisco Caruso da Rocha, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 91110-440, Brazil
    051-3226–8194

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 9. NB Steak

    $$$$ | Floresta

    An upmarket version of a traditional all-you-can-eat (rodízio) churrascaria, NB Steak has replaced the ubiquitous churrascaria salad buffet with a menu of made-to-order salads, and a sequence of delicious side dishes (crispy polenta chips, grilled palm heart, and tempura vegetables to name a few) to accompany the succulent cuts of beef, pork, lamb, and chicken that circulating waiters slice straight onto your plate. To drink, the wine list is vast and, for the most part, pricey.

    R. Ramiro Barcelos 389, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90035-004, Brazil
    051-3225–2205

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