Fodor's Expert Review Colher de Pau

Ana Maria Vilmar and her mother opened Colher de Pau more than a decade ago in a small rented house in the Varjota district. The regional cuisine here has become so popular that there is now a sister spot in São Paulo. The sun-dried meat is served not only with paçoca but also with banana and baião-de-dois (rice and beans). The shellfish dishes, many prepared with regional recipes, are also standouts. Generous portions serve two or three people, and live music is performed nightly in the alfresco courtyard.