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The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted from Tapioca. Lunches are usually casual and not strictly defi
The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted fr
The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal,
The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted from Tapioca. Lunches are usually casual and not strictly defined by the clock, as the hottest part of the day is not the best for large meals. Dinner is the main meal, and starts late, usually around 9. Bahian cuisine is unique and delicious, and a definite reason to visit. The ever-present oleo de dendê (palm oil) is one ingredient that sets it apart from other Brazilian cuisines.
You’ll be hard-pressed to find a Spanish restaurant in Brazil that matches the outstanding food and cocktails served at this vibrant bar-restaurant overlooking the bay in Rio Vermelho and packed with locals every night of the week. Located in a converted town house, tables are scattered through a series of small rooms, styled with vintage Spanish prints on exposed-brick walls. While the most sought-after spot is out on the terrace, if you are in a hurry, opt for one of the stools along the bar and tuck into the delectable menu, featuring inventive salads, fresh seafood, and world-class paella. While the extensive wine list offers Spanish classics, don’t miss the expertly prepared cocktails, such as the jabuticaba caipiroska (a vodka caipirinha made with native jabuticaba fruit).
Rua da Paciencia 251, Salvador, Bahia, 41950–010, Brazil
Located in the heart of the Quadrado, Capim Santo—which means lemongrass in Portuguese—is one of the best restaurants in town. Open since 1985, the family-run business retains an essence of informality and coziness, even though service is super sharp and the healthy, seafood-based menu sophisticated enough to warrant a second branch in São Paulo. Highlights include fresh fish cooked in lemongrass and lobster served in a whole pineapple. Reservations in high season are a must, where regular live music, the flickering candlelight, and jabuticaba caipirinhas make this one of the hottest, and most romantic, spots in Trancoso.
Rua do Beco 55, Trancoso, Bahia, 45818–000, Brazil
Tucked away on a quiet cobbled street, this lively cantina combines good-value Italian classics with a cozy atmosphere. Owner Rafaele makes the most of fresh local seafood for signature dishes such as spaghetti ai frutti di mare and grilled seafood platter to share. Homemade pastas, tasty meat dishes, and endless indulgent desserts have turned this into a local favorite. Come Sunday, regulars spill out onto tables on the street between watching international football on the large TV and sipping limoncello. The wine list is one of the most varied in town and is well priced, and the fixed-price lunch menu is an excellent value.
Rua das Laranjeiras 17, Salvador, Bahia, 40250–000, Brazil
This hippie-chic beach bar is loved as much for its signature cocktail, the Anti-Stress (vodka muddled with lemongrass, mint, and ginger), as for its extensive, tasty menu (try the tuna tartare and teriyaki salmon) and position on the beach at Ponto do Mutá. During high season, it's best to book ahead if you want one of the tables in the sand, perfect for whiling away the day until it's time to watch the sunset. Service can be alternately brilliant and patchy, but when everything clicks, it's one of the more sophisticated options on the peninsula.
Fabulous thin-crust pizza, homemade pasta, and a happening scene keep this lively local spot ever popular, even if the prices may make your eyes water.
Rua Carlos Alberto Parracho s/n, Trancoso, Bahia, 45818–000, Brazil
It isn't surprising that seafood fresh from the ocean is the specialty at this simple yet ever-popular Bahian restaurant on Praia do Forte's main street. Choose between eight different varieties of seafood moqueca, or opt for the lighter option of ensopado.
Av. Acm. 159, Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro, 48280-000, Brazil
The delicious 30-dish buffet served in the wood-paneled dining room of this restored town house set right on the Pelourinho provides a comprehensive A to Z of Bahian cuisine for the uninitiated at a set price. Start at the small museum on the ground floor, where English-speaking staff will guide you through Bahian food's African roots, before heading up to the breezy dining room to experience it in action. Superbly run by the hospitality school SENAC, the students are responsible for the golden moquecas and impossibly sweet desserts—as well as excellent service. Everything is executed under the watchful eye of professors in suits. Vegetarians should make for the Kilo restaurant below.
Praça José de Alencar 13/19, Salvador, Bahia, 40025–140, Brazil
Set on what is arguably Maraú’s most beautiful stretch of coastline, Praia do Algodões, beach-lounge and restaurant Tikal is one of the best places to be, whether whiling away the day over crispy prawns and grilled palm heart or partying until dawn with gorgeous Brazilians at one of their legendary parties. While it may be a bit of a trek from Barra Grande itself (the drive takes approximately 40 minutes), the experience is well worth it, from the sparkling service to swimming in Tikal’s own lagoon. The only downside is that it only opens for two months of the year.
Tucked away above a busy street in the Pelourinho, Uauá's tasty, typically Brazilian dishes and reliable service make it one of the most popular restaurants in Salvador—and therefore one of the most crowded. Come early to avoid the rush. Don't skip the Northeastern specialities, like guisado de carneiro (minced mutton), moqueca, or carne do sol com purê de macaxeira (salted beef with mandioca (cassava) purée). Portions are big enough to share.
Rua Gregório de Matos 36, Salvador, Bahia, 40025–060, Brazil
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