Salvador and the Bahia Coast Restaurants

The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted from Tapioca. Lunches are usually casual and not strictly defined by the clock, as the hottest part of the day is not the best for large meals. Dinner is the main meal, and starts late, usually around 9. Bahian cuisine is unique and delicious, and a definite reason to visit. The ever-present oleo de dendê (palm oil) is one ingredient that sets it apart from other Brazilian cuisines.

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  • 1. Café Ba-Cana

    $

    Regular live music and excellent cocktails make this a popular hangout with visitors and locals come nightfall. During the day it's a hot spot for caffeine aficionados, with a range of organic locally produced coffees complementing delicious homemade cakes and a simple menu of salads, sandwiches, and pasta dishes.

    Rua Boa Vista 60, Lençóis, Bahia, 46960–000, Brazil
    075
  • 2. Cozinha Aberta

    $$$$

    You’ll be forgiven for wanting to order everything on the menu at Brazilian chef Deborah Doitschinoff’s Slow Food spot set right on the river, where passionate staff talk diners through the rare local ingredients (such as batata da serra) that inspire the menu. Highlights include cacao spaghetti with shrimp, cashew-filled eggplant rolls, and cinnamon and tamarind caipirinhas. And while the flavors could be more inventive for the price, the experience itself—dining alfresco overlooking Lencois’s rushing waterway with excellent service—makes for one of the most pleasant meals in town.

    Av. Rua Barbosa 42, Lençóis, Bahia, 46960–000, Brazil
    075-3334–1321
  • 3. Pizzeria da Gente

    $

    Arguably the best-value dining experience in town, this hole-in-the-wall spot is a local favorite for its tasty thin-crust wood-oven pizzas and ice-cold beer, which can be ordered to take away or enjoyed at one of the metal tables set out in the street. Still hungry? Stop off next door for a sugar high at Pavê e Comê, a dessert-only café run by charismatic granny Sonia, who specializes in classic Brazilian treats such as pavê de chocolate com caldo quente e sorvete de maracujá (chocolate cake with hot sauce and passion-fruit ice cream).

    Rua das Pedras s/n, Lençóis, Bahia, 46960–000, Brazil
    075-3334–1963

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 4. Restaurante O Bode

    $

    This excellent-value per-kilo restaurant offers a great pit stop at lunch or dinner for meat lovers and vegetarians alike, with an extensive salad buffet accompanying a wide selection of slow-roasted meats and vegetable dishes cooked in clay pots.

    Praça Horacio de Matos, Lençóis, Bahia, 46960–000, Brazil
    075-3334–1600
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