Circuito Chico y Circuito Grande

If you're in Bariloche, get out of town to take in some of the spectacular scenery and old-school resort feel of the area on either the Circuito Chico (Small Circuit) or Circuito Grande (Large Circuit) by rental car, hired driver, or tour group.

The Circuito Chico is a 70-km (43½-mile) half-day round-trip from Bariloche along the southern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Visitors head out to the Llao Llao Peninsula to ski or take in the lake views and waterfalls without ever being too far from a cup of tea.

The Circuito Grande covers 250 km (155 miles) and is an all-day excursion across the lake from Bariloche. This drive is more about wooded hikes and hidden lakes, and includes two towns where you could spend a night.

You can do the Circuito Chico on one tank of gas. Circuit Grande, however, has longer unpopulated spans. Leave Bariloche with a full tank and refuel at Confluencia or Villa La Angostura.

Weather Tips

The Circuito Chico has lots of traffic but is otherwise an easy drive whatever the weather. The Circuito Grande is another story. The roads to Villa La Angostura and Confluencia are good, but Ruta Provincial 65 past Lago Traful is unpaved and can be treacherous in bad weather. Always check road conditions with the Automóvil Club Argentino (www.aca.org.ar), the park office, or your hotel.

Circuito Chico

From Bariloche's Centro Cívico (Km 0), follow the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi west on Ruta 237. At Km 7, stop at Playa Bonita's sandy beach. At Km 10, take the chairlift or climb to the top of Cerro Campanario. When you reach the Península Llao Llao (Km 25.5), bear right to Puerto Pañuelo, where boats embark on lake excursions to Isla Victoria, Puerto Blest, and the boat crossing to Chile. Across from the Puerto Pañuelo, the Llao Llao Hotel & Resort sits on a lakeside knoll with a backdrop of sheer cliffs and snow-covered mountains. Continue following Ruta 77 to Bahía Lopez; you'll approach through a forest of ghostly, leafless lenga trees. After Bahía Lopez, the road crosses Arroyo Lopez (Lopez Creek); stop to hike to the waterfall or continue on Ruta 77 to Punto Panorámico, one of the most scenic overlooks on the peninsula. Just before you cross the Moreno Bridge, an unmarked dirt road off to the right leads to the rustic village of Colonia Suiza, a perfect stop for tea or lunch. Backtrack to cross Moreno Bridge, then leave Ruta 77 for Ruta 237 back to Bariloche.

Circuito Grande

Leaving Bariloche on Ruta 237 heading east, follow the Río Limay into the Valle Encantado (Enchanted Valley), with its magical red rocks. Before crossing the bridge at Confluencia (where the Río Traful joins the Limay), turn left onto Ruta 65 to Lago Traful. Five km (3 miles) beyond the turnoff, a dirt road to Cuyín Manzano leads to astounding sandstone formations. Return to Ruta 65 and follow Lago Traful's shore. When you see the sign indicating a mirador, stop and climb the wooden stairs to one of the loveliest views in the region. Descend to Villa Traful, follow the lakeshore, then dive into a dense forest of caña colihue and lenga trees. At the intersection with Ruta 237, turn left and follow the shore of Lago Correntoso to the paved road down to Villa La Angostura. The road skirts Lago Nahuel Huapi back into Bariloche.

Need a Break?

Circuito Chico: Chiado (Av. Bustillo [R237], Km 18 2944/448–152 Closed Wed.) is a log house with a corrugated metal roof, a stone terrace, and colorful plants hanging out over the lake. Views are through the gnarly branches of a giant coihué tree to blue water and mountains. The brie sorrentinos in pear and port sauce are as good as the view.

Circuito Grande: If you visit Lago Traful in the morning, chances are you'll hit Villa Traful in time for lunch at Nancu Lahuen (Village center, opposite chapel 294/447–9017), a casual spot in the middle of town with home cooking. If you've brought a picnic, continue on past the town to the beach, where the road leaves the lake for Ruta 234 and Villa La Angostura. In Villa La Angostura, head to La Casita de la Oma (Cerro Inacayal 303 2944/494–602), which serves homemade cakes, pies, and scones. Any dulce de leche item is a sure bet.