Buenos Aires

Preparing for a night out in Buenos Aires has an element of marathon training to it. Rest up with a siesta, fortify yourself with some protein, and drink plenty of fluids before, during, and after. That’s right, the key to porteño nightlife is longevity—after all, an early night means hailing a cab at 6 am.

The scene here rivals that of any capital city, so you’ll find something to suit every taste. Trendy cocktail bars, secret speakeasies, classic tango haunts, artsy watering holes, and packed dance floors await. To make the most of them, try following the locals’ lead.

Painting Buenos Aires red means looking sharp, going with the flow as you bar-hop, and not challenging your new B.A. buddies to raucous drinking games. Porteños adore going out with their friends, but it’s not uncommon to see a large group sharing a liter bottle of beer and swigging from the same glass. Latino lightweights? Not at all. This is just how Argentines roll—and once a night gets really rocking, they'll move onto their favorite tipple, Fernet y Cola.

Hours are relaxed, but there are general guidelines. The smartest bars kick off an evening with happy hours that begin around 8 pm and often stretch way beyond 60 minutes; downtown drinking establishments start even earlier to lure workers to part with hard-earned pesos, spawning the "after-office" across the city, which is now a nightlife fixture almost any day of the week. Theater performances begin around 9 pm and the last movie begins after midnight. By that point, lines to get into popular bars have started forming, but clubs aren’t buzzing until 4 am. If in doubt, turn up later than you consider reasonable when you’re meeting a local (30 minutes after the appointed time is the norm). The subte (subway) closes between 10 and 11 pm, depending on the line and day. Monday through Saturday it reopens at 5 am; on Sunday, however, trains don’t start running again until 8 am. So taking a cab to and from home is a good idea—it’s also quicker than waiting for a colectivo bus very late at night.

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  • 1. Florería Atlántico

    Centro

    A flower shop and wine store combined with a whole lot of bar, this hip basement watering hole opened in 2013, and quickly becoming a fixture on Retiro's growing scene before rising to regular features on the World's 50 Best Bars list. The cocktail menu draws inspiration from Argentina’s immigrant history (the Italians, Spaniards, English, and French have all played their part). Join the cool crowd and kick back with a Vinedo Italiano Spritz created by bartender and owner Tato Giovannoni.

    Arroyo 872, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1007AAB, Argentina
    11-4313–6093
  • 2. Bahrein

    Centro

    This sheik—er, chic and stylish—party palace is located in a former bank, and the Funky Room is where beautiful, tightly clothed youth groove to pop, rock, and funk, while the basement Excess Room has electronic beats and dizzying wall visuals. For a more sophisticated dinner-before-dancing vibe, head upstairs to the Yellow Room. This is a great spot to catch local DJs, though there are also big nights with international artists.

    Lavalle 345, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1047AAG, Argentina
    11-4315–2403
  • 3. BASA Basement Bar

    Centro

    A new kid in Retiro, BASA comes from great stock given that its owners founded the legendary Gran Bar Danzon. Look down and be drawn in by the bright bottles of spirits. Try a Moscow Mule (ginger beer, made in-house, gives it an appropriate kick), or ask Ludovico, the London-trained head barman, for suggestions.

    Basavilbaso 1328, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1006AAD, Argentina
    11-4893–9444
  • 4. Bebop

    Montserrat

    Lurking beneath Aldo's Vinoteca Restorán, this new musical hot spot is led by sommelier and owner Aldo Graziani. A huge jazz fan, he makes sure that the offbeats are well paired with fine wine and tasty bar food.

    Moreno 364, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1091AAH, Argentina
    11-4331–3409
  • 5. Club One

    Centro

    Also fondly known by its previous name, Palacio Alsina, this enormous downtown club meets all the prerequisites for an excellent night out—especially when world-famous DJs make a guest appearance. Pop tunes attract a mixed-age gay and lesbian crowd on Friday and Sunday; Saturday delivers hard electronica for the dance mad.

    Alsina 940, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1088AAB, Argentina
    11-4331–3231
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  • 6. Cocoliche

    Centro

    This happening spot enjoys cult status in both the straight and gay communities. Upstairs is a diverse art gallery big on young locals; downstairs, underground house and techno drives one of the city's darkest dance floors, while DJs with huge followings are frequently on rotation.

    Rivadavia 878, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1002AAT, Argentina
    11-6566–3418
  • 7. Confitería Ideal

    Plaza de Mayo

    Soaring columns, tarnished mirrors, and ancient chandeliers are part of Confitería Ideal's crumbling Old World glamour, along with a rather pungent musty smell. The former homewares store that reinvented itself as a tearoom now hosts milongas organized by different groups in its first-floor dance hall every day of the week. Some are held during the afternoon and evening, others late at night.

    Suipacha 384, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1008AAH, Argentina
    11-4328-7750
  • 8. Contramano

    Centro

    This was a pioneering gay disco when it opened in 1984, but—like its clientele—Contramano has grown up. Today it operates more as a small, laid-back bar with an older, male-only clientele. Occasionally there's live music and male strippers.

    Rodríguez Peña 1082, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1020ADV, Argentina
    11-3279–6304
  • 9. Dadá

    Centro

    Cozy and colorful, Dadá has a short but sweet list of classic cocktails and an ideal bar to perch at while sipping. With its owners doubling as bar staff, Dadá sees an eclectic mix of locals and visitors popping in for dinner, a drink, or both. Grab a booth at the back for extra privacy.

    San Martin 941, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1004AAS, Argentina
    11-4314–4787
  • 10. El Beso

    Congreso

    The standard of dancing is usually high at this club, which belongs to La Academia del Tango Milonguero, one of the city's best tango schools. Beginners should consult the online schedule for classes.

    Riobamba 416, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1025ABJ, Argentina
    11-5833–2338
  • 11. Flux

    Centro

    It took a couple of expats to realize the gap in the market for early-evening gay bars. Their creation, Flux, is a smart, friendly, and sociable basement club that gets going for happy hour at 7 pm and keeps on until after midnight with decent pop music and an ample cocktail menu.

    Marcelo T. de Alvear 980, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1058AAN, Argentina
    11-5252–0258
  • 12. Gran Café Tortoni

    Plaza de Mayo

    Excellent local musicians put on daily performances of tango classics in the downstairs salon of this legendary café, but note that ticket prices can be steeper than average because of the venue's illustrious history. There's jazz sometimes on weekends, too.

    Av. de Mayo 829, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1084AAD, Argentina
    11-4342–4328
  • 13. Gran Rex

    Centro

    Exquisite art deco theaters line Avenida Corrientes, but the rationalist-style Gran Rex—constructed by architect Alberto Prebisch, of the Obelisk fame—is a favorite venue for rock, pop, and jazz musicians. Recent acts that have tested its great acoustics include Coldplay and the legendary Peter Frampton. Tickets are available through Ticketek (wwww.ticketek.com.ar).

    Corrientes 857, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1043AAI, Argentina
    11-4322–8000

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: Box office daily 10–10
  • 14. Groove

    Palermo

    This nightclub, which doubles as a live music venue, may be oddly shaped for spot-on acoustics; however, it attracts plenty of underground and international artists. Weekly parties, metal bands, and European electronic combos form the changing lineup.

    Santa Fe 4389, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1425BHF, Argentina
    11-5368–0679
  • 15. La Cigale

    Centro

    Take advantage of happy hour until 10 pm at La Cigale's curvaceously seductive first-floor bar, which leads to the street-side balcony and smokers' corner. Another flight of stairs winds up to the stage, ready and waiting for local indie, jazz, and acoustic bands any night of the week. 

    25 de Mayo 597, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1002ABP, Argentina
    11-4893–2332
  • 16. La Marshall

    Congreso

    A refreshing exception to the sometimes suffocatingly macho world of tango, this is the gay milonga. The main night is Friday, when a cool set of guys and girls, both gay and straight, look to break with the "he leads, she follows" doctrine.

    Riobamba 416, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1025ABJ, Argentina
    11-4300-3487
  • 17. Luna Park

    Centro

    This indoor stadium at the very top of Corrientes Avenue has been hosting boxing events, ice-skating spectaculars, political rallies, plus rock and pop concerts for more than 80 years. Local acts dominate, but international ones—like Simply Red and Lily Allen—also play here. Tickets normally need to be bought well in advance from the box office or from Ticketportal (wwww.ticketportal.com.ar).

    Av. Madero 420, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1106ABE, Argentina
    11-5279–5279

    Nightlife Details

    Rate Includes: Box office Mon.–Fri. 10–7, Sat. 12–7
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  • 18. ND Teatro

    Centro

    This spacious theater and cultural space mainly showcases midlevel local bands, showmen, and comedians, with a few big Argentine names thrown in for good measure. Get tickets at the box office (open Monday–Saturday, from noon to 8) or through Ticketek ( www.ticketek.com.ar).

    Paraguay 918, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1057AAN, Argentina
    11-4328–2888

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