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Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cu
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. O
Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.
There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cuisine: diverse cultural influences, high culinary aspirations, and a relentless devotion to aesthetics, from plate garnishes to room décor. Tradition dictates late dining, and the majority of restaurants don’t open until 8 or 9 pm for dinner and don’t get busy until after 10. Dinner is a leisurely affair, and the sobremesa, or after-dinner chat over coffee or digestifs, is nearly obligatory. Rushing from the table is frowned on—anyway, where would you go? Bars and clubs often don’t open until after midnight.
The core of the population is of Italian and Spanish heritage, and pizza, pasta, paella, and puchero (beef boil) are as common as the parrilla (steakhouse). Argentines have taken the classics and made them their own with different techniques and ingredients, but they’re still recognizable to the international traveler. Pizzas and empanadas are the favored local snack food, the former piled high with cheese, the latter typically filled with steak or chicken. And while steak is indisputably king in this town, it’s got fierce competition in tender Patagonian lamb, game meats, fish, and shellfish. In contrast to that of much of Latin America, Argentine cuisine is not known for its spice, and picante dishes are not common.
Cafés, too, are an important part of the culture, and locals will stop in at their favorite for a cafecito at least once a day, not only to knock back a little caffeine, but also to see friends and catch up on the latest news and gossip.
The name—which means, more or less, "the way locals eat"—may be a bit of a misnomer, because this restaurant doesn't serve anything that you'd find in a traditional local restaurant. Chef Antonio Sorano takes those traditional concepts and turns them on their head, creating beautifully plated, perfectly prepared dishes that retain the spirit of the original. The menu changes weekly. A well-curated wine list is under the direction of charming sommelier Pablo Colina. This may not be the way locals have been eating, but they're starting to, and you should, too.
Ciudad de la Paz 353, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1426, Argentina
In a charming and creative space that was once a private residence in Belgrano, chef Martín Molteni's dining room offers up a tribute to the lesser-known products of the region. Specializing in unusual meats—llama, wild boar, rabbit, and quail are regular offerings—as well as fresh fish, unusual grains and vegetables, and hand-crafted cheeses, Molteni brings his overseas training in France and Australia to bear on his Argentine heritage. The menu changes completely every two or three months to reflect the freshest seasonal ingredients. While the menu doesn't list vegetarian options, give advance notice when you reserve and the kitchen will turn out equally stunning vegetable plates. A chef's tasting menu is also available.
3 de Febrero 1167, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1426, Argentina
This elegant corner Italian restaurant features wraparound windows overlooking Parque Paseo de las Americas was one of the first spots to bring some life to "Bajo Belgrano." Now, there are a half dozen restaurants within a block, and this area is a dining destination, not only for local Belgrano residents but for visiting gastronomes from across the city and globe. The duo that owns it—restaurateur Fernando Brucco (also owner of Happening in Puerto Madero) and local rocker Fabián "Zorrito" Quintiero (who also owns Soul Café)—have maintained the standards originally set by consulting chef and local food TV personality Donato deSantis. The stars here, other than the owners, are the pastas, made fresh in-house and topped with creative, delicious sauces—don't miss the "Unico," a whopping raviolo filled with spinach and cheese and topped with mushrooms and truffle sauce.
Sucre 696, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1428, Argentina
In the heart of the city's Chinatown, BuddhaBA is part pan-Asian restaurant, part tranquil garden, and part art gallery. The service is understated, but always gracious, and the food is a pleasure to both look at and eat. The tastiest dish on the menu is the paté imperial, a unique twist on the classic Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, reinterpreted as a pair of long, delicate, crispy springrolls. The Chinese sweet-and-sour dishes are always delicious, if sometimes erring a trifle on the sweet side. Finish up with a pot of tea, perhaps out in the garden during nice weather.
Arribeños 2288, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1428, Argentina
While the city's Chinatown is not all that big, it does have its fair share of notable eateries. Lai-Lai stands out for its varied menu, combining not just the more usual Taiwanese cuisine, but also spicier dishes from the Hunan and Szechuan provinces. Not to be missed are the Szechuan dumplings in broth (empanaditas chinas picantes, in Spanish), tofu in a fiery red sauce, and the big-enough-to-share half duck glazed in honey and tea.
Arribeños 2168, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1428, Argentina
11-4780–4900
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: No credit cards, Reservations not accepted
Like the proverbial tortoise, Buenos Aires's first Thai restaurant has kept a slow, steady pace and outlasted all its Southeast Asian competitors. Huge glowing flowers dominate the decor, and there's perhaps a bit too much incense filling the air. While the food here won't amaze anyone who knows Thai cooking, it's a great change of pace for locals looking to try something different or travelers who are tired of steaks. The options are fresh and tasty, particularly the curries, though if you want any heat, don't forget to ask for your dish to be served picante. Portions can be a bit skimpy given the prices, though there are lunch prix-fixe options that are more wallet friendly.
Arribeños 2265, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1426, Argentina
This elegant chain was a successful attempt at bringing Argentine food to the U.S. When the first branch opened at in Buenos Aires, it shifted into reverse and focused on North American specialties like burgers, sandwiches, and salads, along with a few local favorites like empanadas, and, of course, meat off the grill. Novecento is known in the expat community for serving up one of the city's best norteamericano brunches around. On weekends crowds flock in looking for a taste of home, mixing it up with neighborhood families checking out dishes from north of the border
Báez 199, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1426, Argentina
"Cavernous" may be the first word that comes to mind upon entering this multilevel concrete-and-metal space with a backlit bar taking up an entire wall, an open kitchen dominating the rear, and a hulking glass wine cave smack in the center of the dining area. Sucre was and is the cutting edge of cuisine in Bajo Belgrano, and though it's off the beaten path, it's well worth the trip. Enjoy the delicious and creative appetizers, but save room for a main course straight off the wood-fired grill: spit-roasted bondiola (pork shoulder) and melt-in-your-mouth Patagonian lamb are among the stars, but any meat or fish coming off the parrilla is going to be a winner and be accompanied by something far more creative than the ubiquitous french fry guarnición. Locals and tourists alike fill the room, and with no soft surfaces it can get loud.
Sucre 676, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, 1428, Argentina
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