San Telmo's Traditional Bars

Get a taste of traditional San Telmo life at the worn wooden tables of its vintage bars (most are open from breakfast right through to the wee hours).

Bar Británico. When they tried to shut down ultravintage Bar Británico, the whole city rallied to its defense. Rub elbows with bohemian students and wizened old-timers as you perk up with a cortado (espresso "cut" with a dash of milk) or unwind with a ginebra (ginlike spirit). The area can be sketchy, so it's best to grab a cab. Brasil 399, at Defensa, Barracas, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1154AAC. 11/4361–2107. Mon. 8 am–midnight, Tues.–Sun. 24 hours.

Bar Plaza Dorrego. Wood-paneled, dust-festooned Bar Plaza Dorrego is right on San Telmo's main square. Sip your cafecito (espresso) or icy beer at one of its window tables for some prime people-watching, all the while shelling your pile of peanuts. Defensa 1098, at Humberto I, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAT. 11/4361–0141. Sun.–Thurs. 8 am–1 am, Fri.–Sat. 8 am–5 am.

Bar Seddon. Tango musicians often perform at Bar Seddon, an otherwise quiet bar with a beautiful checkered floor and old-fashioned cash register. Defensa 695, at Chile, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1065AAK. 11/4342–3700; www.barseddon.com.ar. Sun.–Thurs. 10 am–3 am; Fri.–Sat. 10 am–5:30 am.

Bar El Federal. Regulars insist that the picadas (snacks such as cold cuts and bread) at Bar El Federal are some of the best in town—and you can linger over them for hours, no questions asked. Carlos Calvo 599, at Perú, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, C1102AAG. 11/4300–4313; www.elfederalrestaurante.com. Mon.–Sat., 10 am–midnight.